Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [121]
DANCE
Bunkamura Theatre Cocoon (Map; 3477-9111; www.bunkamura.co.jp/english; 2-24-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; tickets from ¥4000; 10am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) This behemoth of an arts centre houses a cinema, theatre, concert hall and art gallery. Theatre Cocoon hosts innovative, offbeat and traditional musical and theatrical performances; check the website for information on current productions.
Session House (Map; 3266-0461; 158 Yaraichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission varies; performances 7pm; Tōzai line to Kagurazaka, exit 1) Dance aficionados consider Session House one of the best traditional, folk and modern dance spaces in the city. The theatre seats only 100 people, ensuring an intimate and memorable performance. Exit right from Kagurazaka Station, make a right into the first narrow alley, and turn left where it dead-ends. Session House will be a few metres on your right.
KABUKI
Kabuki-za (Map; 3541-3131; www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza/theater/index.html; 4-12-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; admission ¥2500-17,000; 11am-9pm; Hibiya, Toei Asakusa lines to Higashi-Ginza, exit 3) If you visit before April 2010, take in a last kabuki performance at historic Kabuki-za before the theatre is demolished (Click here). Performances and times vary from month to month, so consult the website or contact the theatre directly for program information. Audio guides providing commentary in English are available for ¥650 plus a ¥1000 deposit. Kabuki performances can be quite a marathon, lasting from four to five hours. If you’re not up to it, you can get tickets for the 4th floor from ¥600 to ¥1000 and watch only part of the show (ask for hitomakumi; one act, audio guides not available). Tickets can be bought on the day of the performance; there are generally two performances, starting at around 11am and 4pm.
Kokuritsu Gekijō (left), Japan’s national theatre, also has kabuki performances, with a range of seat prices. Audio guides are available. Check with the theatre for performance times.
NŌ
Nō (classical stylised Japanese dance-drama) performances are held at various locations around Tokyo. Tickets cost between ¥2100 and ¥15,000, and it’s best to get them at the theatre itself. Check with the TIC or the appropriate theatre for performance information.
Kanze Nō-gakudō (Map; 3469-5241; www.kanze.net, in Japanese; 1-16-4 Shōtō, Shibuya-ku; tickets from ¥3000; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachickō exit) One of the oldest and most highly respected schools of nō in Tokyo, Kanze Nō-gakudō is about a 15-minute walk west from Shibuya station.
Kokuritsu Nō-gakudō (National Nō Theatre; Map; 3423-1331; www.ntj.jac.go.jp/nou/index.html, in Japanese; 4-18-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥2800-5600; reservations 10am-6pm; JR Chūō, Sōbu lines to Sendagaya, main exit) The National Nō Theatre stages its own productions (for which written English synopses are provided), but also hosts privately sponsored nō performances. To get there, exit Sendagaya station with Shinjuku to your left and follow the road that hugs the railway tracks. The theatre is on the left.
TAKARAZUKA GEKIJŌ
Kabuki kicked women out of the tradition, but the ladies have taken the ball and run with it at the Takarazuka Gekijō (Takarazuka Revue; Map; 5251-2001; http://kageki.hankyu.co.jp/english; 1-1-3 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; admission ¥3500-10,000; vary; Chiyoda, Hibiya, Toei Mita lines to Hibiya, exits A5 & A13), founded in 1913. The extensively trained, all-female cast puts on an equally grand – if drastically different – show, with women in drag playing the male roles. These musical productions tend toward the soap-operatic and attract a disproportionate percentage of swooning female fans.
Tea Ceremonies
A few hotels in Tokyo hold tea ceremonies that you can see and occasionally participate in for a fee. Call ahead to make reservations.
Hotel New Ōtani (Map; 3265-1111; 4-1 Kioi-chō, Chiyoda-ku; tea ceremony ¥1050; ceremonies 11am & 1pm Thu-Sat; Ginza & Marunouchi