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One of the chief attractions on this 599m mountain is the temple Yaku-ō-in (; 661-1115; 24hr), best known for the Hi-watari Matsuri (fire-crossing ceremony), which takes place on the second Sunday in March, at 1pm near Takaosanguchi Station). Priests walk across hot coals with bare feet amid the ceremonial blowing of conch shells. The public is also welcome to participate.

The rest of the year, Takao-san offers nature hikes with six trails. Keio line offices have free trail maps in English. The most popular trail (No 1) leads you past the temple; allow about 3¼ hours return for the 400m ascent. Alternatively, a cable car and a chair lift can take you part of the way up (one way adult/child ¥470/230, return ¥900/450).

From Shinjuku Station, take the Keio line (jun-tokkyū; ¥370, 47 minutes) to Takaosanguchi. The tourist village (with snack and souvenir shops), trail entrances, cable car and chairlift are a few minutes away to the right. JR Pass holders can travel to Takao Station on the JR Chūō line (48 minutes) and transfer to the Keio line to Takaosanguchi (¥120, two minutes).

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OKU-TAMA REGION

Oku-Tama is Tokyo’s best spot for hiking getaways. Here, the Tama-gawa runs through magnificent mountains with waterfalls, woodlands and hiking trails, ideal for day trips or overnight stays. The lofty shrine of Musashi Mitake-jinja and the quaint village surrounding it is a hidden gem of Tokyo.

Mitake-san

Mitake is a charming old-world mountain hamlet that seems light years from Tokyo’s bustle. Try to spot a flying squirrel or simply breathe the fresh air redolent of cedar. Access is easiest by cable car, and about 20 minutes on foot from the terminus, up dozens of steps, is Musashi Mitake-jinja (; 0428-78-8500;24hr), a Shintō shrine and pilgrimage site said to date back some 1200 years. The site commands stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Pick up maps at the Mitake Visitors Centre (; 0428-78-9363; 9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun), 250m beyond the cable car, near the start of the village.

Ōtake-san Hike

If you’ve got time, the five-hour round-trip hike from Musashi Mitake-jinja to the summit of Ōtake-san (1266m) is highly recommended. Although there’s some climbing involved, it’s a fairly easy hike and the views from the summit are excellent – Mt Fuji is visible on clear days. On the way, you can detour to Nanoyono-taki falls, Ganseki-en rock garden and Ayahirono-taki falls.

If you’re not spending the night on Mitake-san, be sure to note the hours of the cable car before setting out.

Sleeping & Eating

The following places are all near Musashi Mitake-jinja.

Mitake Youth Hostel (; 0428-78-8501; fax 78-8774; www.jyh.or.jp; dm with/without 2 meals ¥4550/2880, extra ¥1000 for nonmembers) This comfortable hostel has fine tatami rooms inside a handsome old building that used to be a pilgrims’ lodge. It’s midway between the top of the cable car and Musashi Mitake-jinja, about a minute beyond the visitors centre.

Komadori San-sō (; 0428-78-8472; fax 78-8472; www.hkr.ne.jp/~komadori; r per person from ¥4500; ) Below the shrine near the back end of the village, this 10-room inn brims with bric-a-brac, and the owners are friendly and at ease with foreigners. There’s a balcony with mountain views, and gigantic cypress bathtubs.

Reiunso (; 0428-78-8501; fax 78-8774; www.reiunsou.com, in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥8400) In the same building as the Mitake Youth Hostel, Reiunso has upgraded facilities and more elaborate meals featuring seasonal mountain vegetables.

Momiji-ya (; 0428-78-8475; mains ¥735-1155; noon-5pm, closed irregularly) This soba (buckwheat noodles) shop near the shrine gate has views out the back windows and items like kamonanban soba (noodles in hearty duck broth; ¥1155). There’s a picture menu. Look for the brown-and-white curtain outside.

Getting There & Away

To reach Mitake-san, take the JR Chūō line from Shinjuku Station, changing to the JR Ōme line at Tachikawa