Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [141]
Return to beginning of chapter
MT FUJI AREA
Always breathtaking, iconic Mt Fuji dominates the region west of Tokyo. Climbing this volcano is a tradition with sacred overtones, though many visitors are content to view it from its foothills. Hakone is the most famous spot for Fuji viewing, but the scenic Fuji Go-ko region offers similar views and fewer crowds.
Mt Fuji
On clear days, particularly in winter, Mt Fuji (Fuji-san in Japanese) is visible from as far as Tokyo, 100km away. When Japan’s highest mountain (3776m) is capped with snow, it’s a picture-postcard perfect volcanic cone. For much of the year you need to be closer, and even then the notoriously shy mountain is often covered in haze or cloud. Winter and spring are your next best bets for Fuji-spotting, yet even during these times the mountain may be visible only in the morning before it retreats behind its cloud curtain.
ORIENTATION
If Mt Fuji is the centre of this region, other attractions radiate around it like the numerals on a clock. At 5 o’clock is Izu-hantō, while 4 o’clock points you towards Hakone. The Fuji Go-ko (Fuji Five Lakes) region begins at about 2 o’clock and heads west, through the towns of Fuji-Kawaguchi-ko, continuing along the mountain’s northern flank to the lovely, remote lake Motosu-ko at about 10.30 on the clock. Much of this land is part of the noncontiguous Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.
* * *
MT FUJI: KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Although children and grandparents regularly reach the summit of Fuji-san, this is a serious mountain and not to be trifled with. It’s high enough for altitude sickness and, as on any mountain, the weather can be volatile. On the summit it can go from sunny and warm to wet, windy and cold remarkably quickly. Even if conditions are fine, you can count on it being close to freezing in the morning, even in summer.
Mt Fuji’s official climbing season is from 1 July to 31 August, and the Japanese pack in during those busy months, meaning occasional night-time queues reminiscent of the Marunouchi line in Tokyo. Authorities strongly caution against climbing outside of the regular season, when services are suspended; hiking from October to May can be very dangerous.
At a minimum, bring clothing appropriate for cold and wet weather, including a hat and gloves, as well as drinking water and snacks. If you’re climbing at night, bring a torch (flashlight) or headlamp, and spare batteries. Descending the mountain is much harder on the knees than ascending; bending your knees and using your thigh muscles can help.
* * *
INFORMATION
Brochures available from the Tokyo Tourist Information Center (03-5321-3077) provide exhaustive detail on transport to Mt Fuji and how to climb the mountain.
The best tourist information centres near the mountain are the Fuji-Yoshida Information Center (0555-22-7000; 9am-5.30pm), to the left as you exit the Fuji-Yoshida train station, and the Kawaguchi-ko Tourist Information Center (0555-72-6700; 9am-5pm Sun-Fri, 8.30am-6.30pm Sat & holidays), next to Kawaguchi-ko train station. Both have friendly, English-speaking staff and maps and brochures of the area. During the climbing season (1 July to 31 August), there is also climbing information provided by staff in English at a special office at Fuji-Yoshida city hall (0555-24-1236; 8.30am-5.15pm Mon-Fri).
CLIMBING MT FUJI
The mountain is divided into 10 ‘stations’ from base (first station) to summit (10th), but most climbers start from one of the four 5th stations, reachable by road. From the 5th stations, allow about 4½ hours to reach the top and about three hours to descend, plus an hour for circling the crater at the top. The former Mt Fuji Weather Station, on the southwest edge of the crater, marks the mountain