Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [142]
North of Mt Fuji is the Kawaguchi-ko 5th station (2305m), reachable from the town of Kawaguchi-ko. This station is particularly popular with climbers starting from Tokyo. Other 5th stations are at Subashiri (1980m), Gotemba (1440m; allow seven to eight hours to reach the summit) and Fujinomiya (Mishima; 2380m), which is best for climbers coming from the west (Nagoya, Kyoto and beyond).
To time your arrival for dawn you can either start up in the afternoon, stay overnight in a mountain hut and continue early in the morning, or climb the whole way at night. You do not want to arrive on the top too long before dawn, as it’s likely to be very cold and windy.
Trails below the 5th stations are now used mainly as short hiking routes, but you might consider the challenging but rewarding hike from base to summit on either the Yoshidaguchi Trail (see opposite) from Fuji-Yoshida or on the Shoji Route from near Shoji-ko. There are alternative trails on the Kawaguchi-ko, Subashiri and Gotemba routes, which, assuming strong knees and expendable clothing, you can descend rapidly by running, schussing and sliding down loose, clay-red sand.
Mountain Huts
From the 5th to the 8th station, about a dozen lodges are scattered along the trails. Accommodation here is basic: most charge around ¥5000 for a blanket on the floor sardined head-to-toe with other climbers. Staff prepare simple meals, and you’re welcome to rest inside as long as you order something. If you don’t feel like eating, a one-hour rest costs ¥500. Camping on the mountain is not permitted.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The Mt Fuji area is most easily reached from Tokyo by bus; from Kansai the journey can require multiple connections via Mishima Station on the Kodama shinkansen. The two main towns on the north side of the mountain, Fuji-Yoshida and Kawaguchi-ko, are the principal gateways. See Fuji Go-ko (Fuji Five Lakes), right.
From 1 July to 31 August, direct buses (¥2600, 2½ hours) run from Shinjuku bus terminal to the Kawaguchi-ko 5th station. For details call Keiō Dentetsu Bus (03-5376-2217). This is by far the fastest and cheapest way of getting from Tokyo to the 5th station. If you take two trains and a bus, the same trip can cost nearly ¥6000. If you’re already in Kawaguchi-ko, there are bus services up to Kawaguchi-ko 5th station (¥1500, 55 minutes) from 1 July to 31 August. The schedule varies considerably during the shoulder period – call Fuji Kyūkō bus (0555-72-6877) for details. At the height of the climbing season, there are buses until 9.15pm – ideal for climbers intending to make an overnight ascent. Taxis operate from Kawaguchi-ko train station to the Kawaguchi-ko 5th station for around ¥10,000, plus tolls.
Coming from western Japan, buses run from the shinkansen stations at Shin-Fuji (¥2400) and Mishima (¥2390) to Fujinomiya (Mishima) 5th station in just over two hours. There are reservation centres in Tokyo (03-5376-2217) and Fuji (0555-72-5111).
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THE YOSHIDAGUCHI TRAIL UP MT FUJI
Before the construction of the road to the 5th station, Fuji pilgrims began at Sengen-jinja near present-day Fuji-Yoshida, walking among towering cryptomeria trees and old stone lanterns, paying their homage to the shrine gods, and beginning their 19km ascent up Japan’s most sacred mountain. Today, this path offers climbers a chance to participate in this centuries-old tradition. Purists feel this is the best way to climb, saying that the lower reaches are the most beautiful, through lush forests along an isolated path. Through sunset, the sunrise and a night in a mountain hut, you’ll perhaps get a sense of that elusive spirit so deeply sought by pilgrims in the past.
Of all the routes up Mt Fuji, the Yoshidaguchi trail is the oldest. To reach the trail from Sengen-jinja, veer to the right before the main building and turn left onto the main road. This is paved, and you’ll soon see a walking path alongside the road. When this roadside trail ends, take the first turn to the right to meet up with the woodland path.
After about 1¼ hours of walking you