Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [143]
Around 90 minutes later is Umagaeshi, which once housed the old stables where horses were left before pilgrims entered the sacred area of the mountain. A big yellow sign to your left marks the path. Follow this through the torii with monkeys on either side, as it continues uphill. Another 20 minutes and you’ll pass the 1st station.
Between the 2nd and the 3rd stations, just a bit of navigation is required. The Fuji path meets up with the Nyonin Tenjo (Women’s Holy Ground), which until 1832 was as far up as women were allowed to go. All that remains is an altar, hidden in the forest. Just before entering you’ll cross through a set of posts. Take a right, walk for 150m and look for the posts on the left, which mark the continuation of the path. Around an hour later, the path meets up with the 5th station road. You’ll find the Fuji path 150m on, cutting up to the right. You can stay at one of the 5th stations in the vicinity or if you still have energy, continue up another two hours to one of the 7th station huts.
It takes about five hours to reach the 5th station from Sengen-jinja. The next day, you’ll have a much harder 4½-hour ascent up the scarred, barren mountain. Many rise at midnight and climb in darkness, but you can let the crowds go, get up at 4.30am and complete the ascent as the sun peeks through the clouds. On the descent, you can catch a bus at the Kawaguchi-ko 5th station, which will take you to Kawaguchi-ko station.
Pick up maps and get the latest climbing information from the Fuji-Yoshida Information Center (0555-22-7000; 9am-5.30pm). The Climbing Mt Fuji brochure is invaluable.
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Fuji Go-ko
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The Fuji Go-ko (Fuji Five Lakes) region is a postcard-like area around Fuji’s northern foothills; its lakes provide perfect reflecting pools for the mountain’s majesty. Yamanaka-ko is the largest and easternmost lake, followed by Kawaguchi-ko, Sai-ko, Shoji-ko (the smallest) and Motosu-ko. Particularly during the autumn kōyō (foliage) season, the lakes make a good overnight trip out of Tokyo, for a stroll or a drive, and the energetic can hike in nearby mountains.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Although adjacent, Fuji-Yoshida and Kawaguchi-ko are separate administrative districts, with separate visitor facilities.
Fuji-Yoshida
Fuji-Yoshida’s oshi no ie (pilgrims’ inns) have served visitors to the mountain since the days when climbing Mt Fuji was a pilgrimage rather than a tourist event. A necessary preliminary to the ascent was a visit to the deeply wooded, atmospheric Sengen-jinja (1615; thought to have been the site of a shrine as early as 788), which is still worth a visit for its 1000-year-old cedar, the main gate, which is rebuilt every 60 years (slightly larger each time), and the two one-tonne mikoshi used in the annual Yoshida no Hi Himatsuri (Yoshida Fire Festival).
From Fuji-Yoshida Station you can walk (15 minutes) or take a bus to Sengen-jinja-mae bus stop (¥150, five minutes).
Central Fuji-Yoshida’s Gekkō-ji district () feels like the little town that time forgot, with original mid-20th century facades. Inside are some surprisingly hip cafes and shops, and it’s worthwhile getting a little lost here.
One stop west of Fuji-Yoshida Station is Fuji-Q Highland (23-2111; admission only adult/child ¥1200/600, day pass ¥4800/3500; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun), an amusement park with roller coasters, bumper cars, Gundam and Thomas the Tank Engine attractions, and more.
Kawaguchi-ko
On the lake of the same name, the sleepy town of Fuji-Kawaguchi-ko is closest to four of the five lakes and a popular departure point for climbing the mountain. Around 600m north of Kawaguchi-ko Station, on the lower eastern edge of the lake, is the Kawaguchi-ko cable car (72-0363; one way/return ¥400/700) to the Fuji Viewing Platform (1104m). Ask at Kawaguchi-ko Tourist