Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [144]
Near the north shore of the lake, the unique Itchiku Kubota Art Museum (; 76-8811; admission ¥1300; 10am-5pm Dec-Mar, 9.30am-5pm Apr-Nov) presents lavishly dyed kimonos by Itchiku Kubota, whose lifework of continuous landscapes is displayed in a grand hall made of cypress.
If Mt Fuji isn’t visible, Fuji Visitor Center (; 72-0259; admission free; 8.30am-10pm late Jul-late Aug, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb, sliding closing time rest of year) shows what you’ve missed. An English video gives a great summary of the mountain and its geological history.
The western lakes are relatively undeveloped. At Sai-ko, Sai-ko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba (; 20-4677; adult/child ¥200/100; 9am-5pm) opened in 2006 on the site of some historic thatched-roof houses, washed away in a typhoon 40 years earlier. Inside these dozen reconstructed frames are demonstrations of silk and paper crafts; restaurants specialise in soba and konyakku (arrowroot gelatin).
There are good views of Mt Fuji from the western end of the lake and from the Kōyō-dai lookout, near the main road. Close to the road are the Narusawa Ice Cave and the Fugaku Wind Cave, both formed by lava flows from a prehistoric eruption of Mt Fuji.
Further west, tiny Shoji-ko is said to be the prettiest of the Fuji Go-ko, though it has no view of Mt Fuji. However, you can continue to Eboshi-san, a one- to 1½-hour climb from the road, for a fine view of the mountain over the Aokigahara-jukai (Sea of Trees). The last lake along is Motosu-ko, the deepest and least visited of the lakes.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
The Yoshida no Hi Matsuri (Yoshida Fire Festival; 26 to 27 August) is an annual festival held to mark the end of the climbing season and to offer thanks for the safety of the year’s climbers. The first day involves a mikoshi procession and the lighting of bonfires on the town’s main street. On the second day, festivals are held at Sengen-jinja (opposite).
SLEEPING
If you’re not overnighting in a mountain hut, Fuji-Yoshida and Kawaguchi-ko make good bases. Their respective tourist information offices (Click here) can make reservations for you.
Fuji-Yoshida
Fuji-Yoshida Youth Hostel (22-0533; www.jyh.or.jp; member/nonmember dm ¥2900/3400; ) This is a popular old lodging in Fuji-Yoshida’s old town. Some of these Japanese-style rooms have mountain views. The hostel is around 600m south of Shimo-Yoshida Station; walk down the main street, going through three sets of lights and turning down the small alley on the right.
Tabijiya (20-0500; fax 24-0200; www.tabijiya.jp, in Japanese; s/d/tw from ¥5900/11,000/12,000; ) This clean, family-run business hotel is about 25 minutes’ walk from the town centre behind Keiyo drugstore and MOS Burger. A large breakfast is ¥950.
Kawaguchi-ko
Most inns far from Kawaguchi-ko Station offer free pick-up.
K’s House Mt. Fuji (83-5556; fax 83-5557; kshouse.jp; dm from ¥2500, r from ¥3400; ) This clean, new hostel near the lake is in a renovated building with a cheery, welcoming atmosphere. There’s a fully loaded kitchen, mountain bikes for hire and no curfew. Staff will pick you up for free.
Sunnide Resort (; 76-6004; fax 76-7706; www.sunnide.com, in Japanese; r per person ¥6300, cottages from ¥16,000; ) A bit remote but with the best Fuji views in town, friendly Sunnide has hotel rooms and rental cottages with a delicious outdoor bath. Splash out in the stylish premium suites with private balcony baths or ask for the discounted ‘backpacker’ rates (¥4200) if same-day rooms are available. Breakfast/dinner is ¥1050/2100 (¥1575 for the backpacker dinner).
Ashiwada Hotel (; 82-2321; fax 82-2548; www.asiwadahotel.co.jp, in Japanese; s/d ¥7350/12,000; ) This dated but friendly hotel boasts impressive views of Kawaguchi-ko and generously proportioned, mostly Japanese-style rooms with private bath. There are also well-kept common baths and rotemburo. It’s at the western end of the lake, in a more residential neighbourhood.
Fuji Lake Hotel (72-2209; fax 73-2700; www.fujilake.co.jp; r per person with 2 meals from ¥10,500; ) Just off from the town centre