Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [150]
Itō & Jōgasaki
0557
Itō is another hot-springs resort and is notably famous as the place where Anjin-san (William Adams), the hero of James Clavell’s book Shogun, built a ship for the Tokugawa shōgunate. It is said that this resort town was so popular that 100 geisha entertained here a century ago, although these days it’s a commendably relaxed place. Itō Station has a Tourist Information Center (37-6105; 9am-5pm).
A seven-minute walk south of the station is the lovingly crafted Tōkaikan (; 36-2004; adult/child ¥200/100; 9am-9pm, closed 3rd Tue of the month), a 1920s inn and now a national monument for its elegant woodwork, each of its three storeys designed by a different architect. Its large bath (adult/child ¥500/300; 11am-7pm) is still open to bathers.
South of Itō is the striking Jōgasaki coast, with its windswept cliffs formed by lava. A harrowing 48m-long suspension bridge leads over Kadowakizaki Point, with waves crashing 23m below. It’s a popular location for film and TV shoots, particularly suicide scenes. If you have time, there’s a moderately strenuous cliffside hike with volcanic rock and pine forests, south of the 17m-tall lighthouse.
Yamaki Ryokan (; 37-4123, in Japanese; fax 38-8123; www.ito-yamaki.co.jp; r per person incl 2 meals ¥8550), a block east of Tōkaikan, is a charming 15-room inn from the 1940s that testifies to Itō’s rich woodworking tradition. The owner is very friendly but has limited English. Ask for reservations at the Tourist Information Center.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Itō is connected to Atami by the JR Itō line (¥320, 25 minutes). The JR limited express Odoriko service also runs from Tokyo Station to Itō (¥3510, 1¾ hours). From Itō to Jōgasaki, take the Izukyūkō (aka Izukyū) line to Jōgasaki-kaigan (¥560, 18 minutes) and walk downhill about 1.5km; buses are also available but take longer and cost more. Izukyū also continues on to Shimoda.
Shimoda
0558 / pop 25,000
Shimoda’s laid-back vibe is perfectly suited for an exploration of its beaches and history. It holds a pivotal place in Japan’s evolution as the spot where the nation officially opened to the outside world after centuries of isolation. Following the opening of Japan by the Kurofune (Black Ships) under Commodore Matthew Perry, the American Townsend Harris opened the first Western consulate here.
INFORMATION
Main post office (22-1531; 10am-5pm) The main post office has an international ATM; it’s a few blocks from Perry Rd.
Shelly’s English School & Café (27-2686; 11am-6pm Tue-Sat) This kid-friendly snack bar northeast of Izukyū Shimoda Station along the river has info, free internet, book swapping and yummy taco wraps. Look for the red stairs.
Shimoda Tourist Association (22-1531; 10am-5pm) Pick up the useful Shimoda Walking Map and book accommodation. From the station, take a left, walk to the first intersection and you’ll see it on the southeast corner.
Volunteer English Guide Association (23-5151; maimai-h@i-younet.ne.jp; 8.30am-5.15pm Tue-Sun) Offers free guided tours.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ryōsen-ji & Chōraku-ji
A 25-minute walk south of Shimoda Station is Ryōsen-ji (22-0657), site of another treaty, supplementary to the Treaty of Kanagawa, signed by Commodore Perry and representatives of the Tokugawa shōgunate.
The temple’s Black Ship Art Gallery (Hōmotsukan;22-0657; adult/child ¥500/150; 8.30am-5pm, closed 1-3 Aug & 24-26 Dec) includes more than 2800 artefacts relating to Perry, the Black Ships, and Japan as seen through foreign eyes and vice versa. Exhibits change about five times per year.
Behind and up the steps from Ryōsen-ji is Chōraku-ji, where a Russo-Japanese treaty was signed in 1854; look for the cemetery and namako-kabe (black-and-white lattice-patterned) walls.
Hōfuku-ji
In the centre of town is Hōfuku-ji, a temple that is chiefly a museum (22-0960; admission ¥300; 8am-5pm) memorialising the life of Okichi (see the boxed text).
The museum is filled with scenes and artefacts from the various movie adaptations of her life on stage