Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [151]
Gyokusenji
Founded in 1590, this temple (22-1287; admission free, Harris museum adult/child ¥300/150; 8am-5pm) is most famous as the first Western consulate in Japan, in 1856. The museum here is filled with artefacts of the life of Townsend Harris, the first consul general, and life-size models of him and Okichi (see the boxed text). The bas-relief of a cow in front of the temple refers to the fact that Harris requested milk to recover from an illness; Japan had no custom of milk drinking at the time, which changed after seeing the results here.
Shimoda Kōen & Wakanoura Promenade
If you keep walking east from Perry Rd, you’ll reach the pleasant hillside park of Shimoda Kōen, which overlooks the bay. It’s loveliest in June, when the hydrangeas are in bloom. Before entering the park, the coastal road is also a fine place to walk. If you have an hour or so, keep following it around the bay, passing an overpriced aquarium, and eventually you’ll meet up with the 2km-long Wakanoura Promenade, a stone path along a peaceful stretch of beach. Turn right when you meet up with the road to return to Perry Rd.
Nesugata-yama
About 200m east of Izukyū Shimoda Station is the cable-car station to Nesugata-yama (Mt Nesugata; 200m). The Shimoda Ropeway (22-1211; adult/child return, incl park admission ¥1200/600; 9am-5pm) runs cable cars every 10 minutes to a mountain-top park, where the temple Aizendō houses a Kamakura period Buddha statue; some 150 Jizō statues get amazing views of the bay. There’s also a hedge maze and an underwhelming museum of early photographic equipment included in the ticket.
Beaches
There are good beaches around Shimoda, particularly around Kisami, south of town. Take an Irōzaki-bound bus (bus 3 or 4; ¥340); ask to be dropped at Kisami and walk 10 minutes towards the coast. North of Shimoda is the lovely white-sand beach of Shira-hama (bus 9; ¥320), which can get packed in July and August.
Bay Cruises
Several cruises depart from the Shimoda harbour area. Most popular with Japanese tourists is the Kurofune (Black Ships) cruise around the bay (adult/child ¥1000/500, 20 minutes), which departs every 30 minutes (approximately) from 9.10am to 3.30pm.
Three boats a day (9.40am, 11.20am and 2pm) travel to Irōzaki. You can leave the boat at Irōzaki (adult/child ¥1600/800, 40 minutes) and head northwards up the peninsula by bus, or stay on the boat to return to Shimoda.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Kurofune Matsuri (Black Ships Festival) On Friday, Saturday and Sunday around the 3rd Saturday in May, Shimoda commemorates the first landing of Commodore Perry with parades by the US Navy Marine band and firework displays.
Shimoda Taiko Matsuri (Drum Festival) On 14 and 15 August there is a spectacular parade of dashi floats and some serious Japanese-style drumming.
SLEEPING
The Shimoda Tourist Association (22-1531; 10am-5pm) can help with reservations.
Ōizu Ryokan (22-0123; r per person ¥3500; ) Popular with international travellers for its excellent prices, Ōizu has plain but comfy Japanese-style rooms with TV, and a two-seater onsen. It’s at the southern end of town, two blocks north of Perry Rd. Check-in is from 3pm. It’s often closed on weekdays, so phone ahead.
Nansuisō (22-2039; fax 22-4027; r per person ¥4000; ) This quiet old inn along the river is simple but features a large bath fed by real hot-spring water. There are six Japanese-style rooms, without private bathrooms. It’s a pretty spot in spring, when the riverside cherry trees are in bloom.
Yamane Ryokan (22-0482; r per person from ¥5000; ) Conveniently located between Shimoda Station and Perry Rd, this simple, recently built inn has tidy Japanese-style rooms, shared bathrooms and a friendly manager. Breakfast is available for ¥1000.
Ernest House (22-5880; fax 23-3906; www.ernest-house.com; s from ¥6300; ) A great escape, two minutes’ walk from the beach