Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [154]
Matsuzaki
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Things are much quieter on the west coast. The sleepy port of Matsuzaki is known for its streetscapes: some 200 traditional houses with namako-kabe walls. They’re concentrated in the south of town, on the far side of the river. There is no tourist information in English.
The Izu Chōhachi Art Museum (42-2540; adult/child ¥500/free; 9am-5pm) showcases the work of Irie Chōhachi (1815–99). His plaster, fresco and stucco paintings are unimaginably detailed. Each colour, no matter how intricate the design (be it a pine needle or a stitch on a kimono), gets its own layer of plaster. You’ll want to use a magnifying glass (supplied by staff) to examine the works in detail.
Amid rice fields 3km east of town is the delightfully antique Sanyo-sō Youth Hostel (/fax 42-0408; www.jyh.or.jp; dm member/nonmember ¥3360/3960), a former landowner’s home with fine (shared) tatami rooms. If this building was not a hostel, it would probably be some kind of important cultural property. From Shimoda take a Dōgashima-bound bus and get off at the Yūsu-hosteru-mae bus stop (¥1160, 50 minutes); it’s another ¥240 to Matsuzaki.
To central Matsuzaki, the bus fare from Shimoda is ¥1230; from Dōgashima it’s ¥260.
Dōgashima
For help booking accommodation and info on onward transport, stop by the information office (0558-52-1268; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat), in front of the bus stop and above the tourist jetty. Staff will also lend you a bicycle for free.
The main attraction at Dōgashima is the dramatic rock formations that line the seashore. The park just across the street from the bus stop has some of the best views. It’s also possible to take a return boat trip (for 20/50 minutes ¥920/1880) from the nearby jetty to visit the town’s famous shoreline cave. The cave has a natural window in the roof that allows light to pour in. You can look down into the cave from paths in the aforementioned park.
About 700m south of the bus stop and on the water, you’ll find the small but stunning Sawada-kōen Rotemburo onsen (admission ¥500; 7am-7pm Wed-Mon Sep-Jul, 6am-8pm Wed-Mon Aug) perched high on a cliff overlooking the Pacific. Go early in the day if possible; around sunset it’s standing room only for these tiny segregated baths.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses to Dōgashima (¥1360, one hour) leave from platform 5 in front of Shimoda Station. From Dōgashima you can catch a bus onward to Shuzen-ji (¥1970, 1½ hours), complete with fantastic views over Suruga-wan to Mt Fuji. When the air is clear and the mountain is blanketed by snow, you’ll swear you’re looking at a Hokusai print. The best views are between Ōkubo () and Tōi ().
Shuzen-ji Onsen
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Inland Shuzen-ji Onsen is Izu-hantō’s most charming town, a hot-spring village in a lush valley bisected by the rushing Katsura-gawa. Some of Japan’s finest onsen ryokan inns are here as well. There are some fine places to stroll, and at dusk the town bells play ‘Moon River’. There’s a tourist information office (55-0412; 8.30am-5pm) at Shuzen-ji Station. Shuzen-ji Onsen is a 10-minute bus ride from the station.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
In the middle of Shuzen-ji Onsen is the tranquil namesake temple Shuzen-ji (72-0053; admission free; 8.30am-4pm), which celebrated the 1200th anniversary of its founding in 2007. It’s said to have been founded by Kōbō Daishi, the Heian-period priest credited with spreading Buddhism throughout much of Japan. The present structure dates from 1489.
The real reason to visit Shuzen-ji is to take a dip in one of its famous onsen. Right on the river is a foot bath called Tokko-no-yu (; iron-club waters; admission free; 24hr), said to be Izu’s oldest hot spring. Its name comes from a legend that its waters sprung from the rock when it was struck by Kōbō Daishi himself.
Inns around town offer day-use bathing, or try Hako-yu (; 72-5282; admission ¥350; noon-8.30pm), an elegant facility identified by its wonderful wooden tower; bring your own soap.
SLEEPING & EATING
Shuzen-ji Youth Hostel (72-1222; www.jyh.or.jp; dm member/nonmember ¥3360/3960; ) In the hills