Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [155]
Goyōkan (; 72-2066; fax 72-8212; www.goyokan.co.jp; r per person without/with breakfast ¥6450/7500; ) A midrange minshuku (B&B-style lodging) in the centre of everything, with river views. There are no private facilities, but the shared (indoor) baths are made of stone and hinoki cypress. Some English is spoken.
Yukairo Kikuya (; 72-2000; fax 72-2002; www.yukairou-kikuya.net, in Japanese; per person with meals from ¥23,000; ) Spanning the Katsura-gawa, this splendid, romantic ryokan, recently renovated, has been an inn since the mid-17th century and is one of the finest in the country. The blend of Japanese and European furnishings here is delightful. Deluxe rooms feature wa-beds (futons on platforms), and, unusual for kaiseki cuisine, you get to choose your own meals. Naturally, the baths are splendid, too.
Arai Ryokan (; 72-2007; fax 72-5119; www.arairyokan.net; r per person with meals from ¥24,300; ) Long beloved by Japanese artists and writers, this gem of an inn was founded in 1872 and has kept its traditional, wood-crafted heritage. Riverside rooms are magnificent in autumn, when the maples are ablaze. The large outdoor bath is a perfect spot to admire Shuzen-ji’s greenery.
Tokko Café (; 72-6112; meals & snacks ¥400-1250; 9.30am-5pm Fri-Wed) This stylish new cafe-gallery right by Tokko-no-yu features local woodcrafts, homemade cakes and bentō lunch sets of tofu, rice and seasonal veggies for ¥1250. There’s usually a rickshaw parked outside.
Zendera Soba (; 72-0007; meals ¥630-1890; lunch Fri-Wed) This cosy local institution serves zaru soba (cold soba) and the speciality namesake Zendera soba (¥1260), served with your own stalk of wasabi root to grate. It’s steps from the bus station on the river side of the street, and has white and black banners. There’s an English menu.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
From Tokyo, access to Shuzen-ji is via Mishima on the Tōkaidō line (Kodama shinkansen ¥4400, one hour) and then Izu-Hakone Tetsudō trains between Mishima and Shuzen-ji (¥500, 35 minutes). Buses connect Shuzen-ji Station and Shuzen-ji Onsen (¥210, 10 minutes). Buses run between Shuzen-ji and Shimoda (¥2140, two hours) and Shuzen-ji and Dōgashima (¥2140, 1½ hours).
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SOUTH OF TOKYO
It’s easy to breeze by this area on the shinkansen going to Kansai, but it’s packed with history and cultural attractions, particularly the fascinating old capital of Kamakura, often called a Little Kyoto for its wealth of Buddhist temples and Shintō shrines. The vibrant port of Yokohama is Japan’s second-largest city, though it’s a much less chaotic metropolis than its big sister to the north.
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YOKOHAMA
045 / pop 3,655,000
Celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2009, Yokohama prides itself on its role as an early gateway to the West. Home to barely 600 people at the time of the Black Ships, today it’s Japan’s second-largest metropolis, and has a breezy atmosphere and great historical spots. Unlike most Japanese cities, it’s also a city of distinct neighbourhoods, including Chinatown, the historic Motomachi and Yamate districts, and the recent seaside development of Minato Mirai 21.
Yokohama is barely 20 minutes from central Tokyo, which means it’s an easy day trip or night-time excursion. Among Japanese it’s a popular date spot.
History
For most of history, Yokohama was an unnoticed fishing village near a rest stop called Kanagawa on the Tōkaidō. Its fate changed abruptly in 1853–54, when the American fleet under Commodore Matthew Perry arrived off the coast to persuade Japan to open to foreign trade; in 1858 this little village was designated an international port.
Westerners were first relegated to