Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [165]
Narita is chiefly known as the home of Japan’s main international airport, but the older part of the city is a surprisingly pleasant stop. Its quiet streets lead to a 1000-year-old temple with lush gardens – perfect for unwinding before or after a long flight or if you have a layover of a half-day or more.
Orientation
Both the Keisei Narita and JR Narita lines stop in Narita, a couple of hundred metres apart. Both are within a block of Omotesandō, the town’s very pleasant main drag lined with restaurants and shops. It winds like an eel downhill to Narita’s main attractions, Narita-san-kōen and Narita-san Shinshō-ji.
Information
You can pick up a copy of the Narita map/pamphlet at the Narita Tourist Information Center (24-3198; 8.30am-5.30pm) just outside the eastern exit of JR Narita Station, or at the tourist information counters at Narita International Airport. Maps, which include locations of local restaurants, are available at the tourist info center by the station. You might also stop by the Narita Tourist Pavilion (24-3232; Omotesandō; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-May, 10am-6pm Jun-Sep) for exhibits on local history. Either of the offices in town can book accommodation.
Sights
The town’s centrepiece is the impressive Narita-san Shinshō-ji (; 22-2111; admission free; 24hr) and the attractive park around it, Narita-san-kōen (). While the temple was founded in 1070 (five of its buildings are Important Cultural Properties), the main hall is a 1968 reconstruction. The temple itself remains an important centre of the Shingon sect of Buddhism and attracts as many as 10 million visitors annually, particularly around New Year’s.
Amid the 165,000 sq metres of ponds and greenery of Narita-san-kōen (be sure to stroll around the ponds), you’ll find two museums good for real aficionados: the Narita-san Calligraphy Museum (; 24-0774; adult/child ¥500/300; 9am-4pm Tue-Sun), which has a good collection of shodō (calligraphy), and the Reikōkan Historical Material Museum (; 22-0234; adult/child ¥300/150; 9am-4pm Tue-Sun), under the temple’s upper pagoda, with artefacts from 18th-century Japanese life and various temple treasures.
Festivals & Events
Hatsumōde On New Year’s Day, when a large proportion of the Japanese populace visits shrines and temples to receive blessing for the new year, things get hectic at Narita-san Shinshō-ji. A high level of crowd-tolerance is a must.
Setsubun Another notable festival at Narita-san Shinshō-ji, on 3 February, commemorating the last day of winter in the Japanese lunar calendar.
Taiko Matsuri (Drum Festival) On the first Saturday and Sunday in April, some 30 to 40 drumming troupes from all over Japan converge on the city for a noisy, energetic weekend.
Gion Festival Held for three days at the beginning of July, this 300-year-old festival is Narita’s most spectacular, featuring colourful floats and costumed processions.
Unagi Festival During this celebration of eel cuisine from 12 July to 17 August, dig in to a yummy grilled eel set meal (unajū), advertised at many restaurants.
Sleeping
Narita lodging is both in the town centre (accessible by train) and closer to the airport (with airport shuttle service).
Comfort Hotel Narita (; 24-6311; fax 24-6321; www.choice-hotels.jp/cfnarita/; s/d/tw ¥5800/8000/10,000; ) Right outside the east exit of Keisei Narita Station, this business hotel’s rooms are small but spotless, staff have English-language maps to restaurants, there’s a coin laundry, and breakfast and internet connections are free.
Kirinoya Ryokan (; 22-0724; fax 22-1245; www.naritakanko.jp/kirinoya; s/d ¥5000/9000; ) Remote and underwhelming from outside, this inn is actually a museum in disguise. The owner can trace his lineage back 50 generations, and his simple ryokan is filled with samurai armour, swords and art. It’s on Higashi-sando; take the first left after passing the entrance to Narita-san-kōen, follow the road for the next 400m and it’s on the left. Meals are available.
Ohgiya Ryokan (; 22-1161; fax 24-1663; www.naritakanko.jp/ohgiya; s/d ¥7350/13,650, without