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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [166]

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bathroom ¥6300/10,500; ) This 27-room Japanese inn has comfortable rooms; some have traditional art and woodwork and open onto a lovely garden. It’s a 10-minute walk from JR Narita or Keisei Narita Stations, down Omotesandō towards the temple, but forking to the left just before the Tourist Pavilion. It’s 200m further on the left.

Airport hotels are typically big chains. For the following, it’s best to go to the airport and then take the shuttle bus to your hotel.

Hilton Tokyo Narita Airport (; 33-1121; fax 33-0369; www.hilton.com; s/d from ¥8000/12000; ) The 548 modern, spacious guest rooms here are the best bet among the large chains, and staff here stand out for their welcome and professionalism. It’s a 10-minute shuttle bus ride to the airport and train stations.

Narita Excel Hotel Tokyū (; 33-0109; fax 33-0148; www.tokyuhotels.co.jp/en/TE/TE_NARIT/index.html; s/d from ¥13,860/23,100; ) Ten minutes by taxi from the airport and train stations along the Shin-Kūkō expressway, this better-quality business hotel has refurbished rooms, common baths and saunas as well as a tennis court and swimming pool (open midsummer only). Women-only rooms are available.

Eating & Drinking

Grill House Hero’s (’s; 22-9002; most dishes ¥630-890; dinner) The English menu of this izakaya (pub-eatery) careens from okonomiyaki to sausages, in a large room with dark beams. From JR Narita Station east exit, turn where you see Mr Donut. Passing the Tsukuba Hotel, you’ll see the restaurant at the bottom of a hill. There’s a red yakiniku (grilled beef) joint outside.

Kikuya (; 22-0236; sets ¥1050-2310; lunch & dinner) A simple place on Omotesandō across from the Tourist Pavilion. It serves a variety of lunch and dinner sets on the English menu, including sashimi, grilled eel sets (¥1500 to ¥2000) and other Japanese fare. Look for a lady in a kimono greeting customers outside.

Kawatoyo Honten (; 22-2711; meals ¥1260-1890; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) This landmark eel house with a wooden signboard over the door is across from the Tourist Pavilion. The most popular preparation on the English menu is unajū (¥1500), grilled, sauced and served over rice in a lacquer box.

Barge Inn (; 23-2546; meals around ¥1500, drinks from ¥400; 4pm-2am Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat) A popular gathering spot for expats (especially flight crews), this sprawling, nicely aged British-style pub features billiards, a live music space with dance floor, and eclectic English eats on the English menu. There’s a large English sign over the door.

Getting There & Away

From Narita International Airport you can take either the private Keisei line (¥250, five minutes) or JR (¥190/230 from Terminal 2/1, five minutes). From Tokyo, the easiest way to get to Narita is via the Keisei line from Keisei Ueno Station, taking the Skyliner limited express (¥1920, 56 minutes), or the express (kyūkō ¥810, 65 minutes). JR trains from central Tokyo usually involve a transfer at Chiba and Sakura (¥1110, 1½ hours). Note that most JR Narita Express trains do not stop at Narita. For more information, Click here.

Getting Around

The Narita Circle Bus (adult/child ¥200/100) connects the airport hotels with the train stations and Narita-san Shinshō-ji.


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IZU-SHOTŌ

Known in English as the Izu Seven Islands, Izu-shotō are refreshing, worthwhile getaways from the grind of Japan’s big cities. They’re peaks of a submerged volcanic chain extending 300km into the Pacific. Although easily reached by ferry from Tokyo, they feel worlds away. Five of the seven islands are suitable for tourism, and each is different – with excellent connections you could spend an enjoyable week island-hopping. No matter which oneyou visit, you’re sure to find yourself thinking: ‘Can I really be only a few hours from downtown Tokyo?’

Soaking in an onsen while gazing at the Pacific is the classic Izu-shotō activity. There is also excellent hiking up the mostly dormant volcanoes. The islands can be crowded in the summer high season – it’s often better to visit just outside this season, but typhoons can wreak

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