Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [167]
Getting There & Away
Tōkai Kisen Ferry Company (; 03-5472-9999, in Japanese; www.tokaikisen.co.jp, in Japanese) operates ferries between Tokyo and the Izu-shotō.
The inner group of islands (Ō-shima, To-shima, Nii-jima, Shikine-jima and Kōzu-shima) is serviced by high-speed hydrofoils departing mornings from Tokyo (usually around 8am) and returning from the islands to Tokyo that same afternoon. Fares and travel times to/from Tokyo are as follows: Ō-shima ¥8430, two hours; Nii-jima ¥10,880, 3¼ hours; Shikine-jima ¥10,880, 3¼ hours; and Kōzu-shima ¥11,700, four hours.
The inner islands are also serviced by the large passenger ferry Camellia-maru, which departs around 11pm and arrives at the islands early the next morning (it stops at all of the islands from north to south). It returns to Tokyo the same evening. Fares (2nd class) and travel times are as follows: Ō-shima ¥5180, 6¼ hours; Nii-jima ¥6960, 8¾ hours; Shikine-jima ¥6960, 9¼ hours; and Kōzu-shima ¥7380, 10¼ hours. Some of these islands are also serviced by ferries from Izu-hantō.
The outer group of islands (Miyake-jima, Mikura-jima and Hachijō-jima) is serviced by the large passenger ferry Salvia-maru, departing daily around 10.30pm and arriving at the islands the following morning, returning to Tokyo late the same evening. The journey between Tokyo and Hachijō-jima takes 10 hours and costs ¥9760 in 2nd class.
Ferries sail to/from Tokyo’s Takeshiba Pier, a 10-minute walk from the north exit of Hamamatsu-chō Station.
ANA (; 0120-02-9222; www.air-nippon.co.jp, in Japanese) has flights between Tokyo’s Haneda airport and Ō-shima (¥13,100, 35 minutes) and Hachijō-jima (¥19,800, 45 minutes). Shinchūō Kōkū (; 0422-31-4191; www.central-air.co.jp, in Japanese) has flights between Chōfu airport (on the Keiō line about 20 minutes from Shinjuku) and Ō-shima (¥9500, 35 minutes), Nii-jima (¥13,700, 45 minutes) and Kōzu-shima (¥14,900, 55 minutes). Tokyo Ai Land Shuttle (; 0499-62-5222; www.tohoair.co.jp, in Japanese) flies helicopters between Miyake-jima and Ō-shima (¥11,340, 20 minutes).
Getting Around
Island hopping is easy on the daily ferries that run up and down the island chains. In addition, three ferries daily between Nii-jima and Shikine-jima (¥420, 10 minutes) make day trips possible.
Buses run on the larger islands, though they are infrequent. Hitching, while possible, is not that easy. Scooters (around ¥3000 per day) are ideal, though you’ll need an international license to rent them. Bicycle rentals are widely available.
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Ō-SHIMA
04992
The largest of the Izu islands and closest to Tokyo, Ō-shima makes an easy overnight trip out of the city while maintaining a strong island vibe. It is dominated by 754m Mihara-san (), a semidormant volcano that last erupted in 1986. The south coast has some good beaches, and you can round out your stay with a dip in one of the island’s fine onsen. It’s most beautiful when the camellia flowers are in bloom in late winter.
Information
The Ō-shima Tourist Association (; 2-2177; 8.30am-5.15pm) is located near the pier in Motomachi.
Sights & Activities
If you’ve never peered into the maw of a recently erupted volcano, then we highly recommend a trip to the summit of Mihara-san. It’s an awesome experience, and the concrete eruption shelters that line the path to the crater add a certain frisson to the approach. To get there, take a bus from Motomachi port to Mihara-sancho-guchi (¥860, 25 minutes, five departures daily) and walk to the Kaguchi-tenbōdai observation point (about 45 minutes).
Ō-shima’s southernmost point, Toushiki-no-hana () is rocky and wave-beaten, with good swimming in sheltered pools below Tōshiki Camp-jō. Don’t even try to swim when the waves are high. To get there, take a Seminaa-bound bus from Motomachi port to Minami-kōkō-mae (¥620, 35 minutes). About 5km east of this point is the island’s best beach, Suna-no-hama (), a fine stretch of black volcanic sand. Take a Seminaa-bound bus