Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [169]
Minshuku Hamashō (; 5-0524; fax 5-1318; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥7800; ) Very close to Mae-hama beach, this rambling minshuku has friendly owners, good seafood and a great location. We were bitten by the pet dog here, however, so watch out!
Sakaezushi (; 5-0134; mains ¥650-2000; dinner, closed irregularly) About five blocks from Mae-hama beach on the road to Habushi-ura, this popular fishermen’s pub has sets like shima-zushi (island-style sushi; ¥1850). It’s a white building with a renovated wing to the left; look for the blue door curtain.
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SHIKINE-JIMA
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About 6km south of Nii-jima is tiny Shikine-jima, only 3.8 sq km. What this island lacks in size, it more than makes up for in charm. It’s got a couple of great seaside onsen (all of which are free and require bathing suits) and several good little beaches. You can easily make your way around the island on foot, or on mama-charis (granny bikes) that can be rented on the island.
Information
The Shikine-jima Tourist Association (; 7-0170; 8am-5pm) is at the pier.
Sights & Activities
Jinata Onsen (; admission free; 24hr) is one of the most dramatically located onsen we’ve seen in Japan: at the end of a narrow cleft in the rocky coastline, it looks like the work of an angry axe-wielding giant. Try to go midway between high tide and low tide, when the temperature is ideal. Pick up a map at the Tourist Association and look for the stone sign with red arrows at the access road.
Near Ashitsuki Port, you’ll find another onsen: picturesque Matsugashita Miyabi-yu (; admission free; 24hr). It’s not affected by the tide and the view of the harbour is great; look for the entrance near the boat ramp. A minute or so further down the coast is Ashizuki Onsen (; admission free; 24hr), another fine onsen built into the rocks right at the water’s edge. Like Jinata Onsen, the water temperature depends on the tide.
Tomarikō-kaigan () is a picturesque little beach in a sheltered cove with calm waters perfect for children. It’s about 500m northwest of the ferry port, up and over the hill. Naka-no-ura () and Ō-ura () beaches are an easy walk along the same coast.
Sleeping
Kamanoshita Camp-jo (; camp sites free; Jun-Sep; ) Right near a fine little beach and two free onsen, this little camping ground is great, especially in the quieter times of year, when you might have it to yourself. No showers here.
Ō-ura Camp-jo (; camp sites free; Jul & Aug; ) Right on a good beach, this camping ground is rather cramped and not well maintained, but the location is hard to beat. There are showers.
La Mer (; 7-0240; fax 7-0036; www.shikine.com, in Japanese; r from ¥11,550; ) Right uphill from the ferry port, this small pension and separate Early Bird group of bungalows are great for small groups of travellers, though the decor is basically nonexistent. Rental bicycles are available.
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KŌZU-SHIMA
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Dominated by 572m Tenjō-san (), a table-topped mountain that takes up the entire northern end of the island, Kōzu-shima has a couple of decent beaches, one good onsen and some of the best hiking in the Izu-shotō. For thrill seekers, the island’s airport, on a plateau on the southern end of the island, is the closest most of us will ever get to flying off an aircraft carrier.
Information
Located near the pier is the Kōzu-shima Tourist Association (; 8-0321; 8.30am-5.30pm).
Sights & Activities
Hiking around the summit area of Tenjō-san is Kōzu-shima’s main draw. The Tourist Association has excellent Japanese-language hiking maps. The hike up to the 524m Kuroshima-Tenbō-Dai () point is a three-hour roundtrip; on clear days you’ll be rewarded with a fine view of Mt Fuji. From the point, you can continue along the summit plateau to Ura-Sabaku (), a sandy ‘desert’, and Babaa-Ike (), a small pond.
Back at sea level, about 1km north of the pier, the fine Kōzu-shima Onsen (; admission ¥800; 10am-9pm Thu-Tue) has three