Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [170]
About 2km north of the onsen, along the coastal road, you’ll find Akazaki-no Yūhodō (; admission free; 24hr), a fantasy land of wooden walkways, bridges, diving platforms and observation towers built around a great natural swimming inlet in the craggy coast. It’s the sort of place you’d see more of if the world was ruled by children.
Sleeping & Eating
Nagahama Camp-jo (; camp sites free; ) Right on the beach, with showers and barbecue grills, this camping ground is fairly close to the onsen, about 2km north of the pier.
Hotel Kōzukan (; 8-1321; fax 8-1323; www.kozukan.yad.jp, in Japanese; r per person from ¥6300; ) The island’s only hotel has both Japanese- and Western-style rooms, with private toilets but shared bathrooms. A friendly family runs the place. Rooms are fairly spacious and there are sunset views.
Ryokan Shūsō (; 8-0883; fax 8-0884; www.syuso.jp, in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥7500; ) At the top of the village, near the trailhead for Tenjō-san, this very modern home run by an English-speaking lady has baths with views of the valley, and excellent food. Call for a pick-up.
Daijinko (; 8-1763; snacks ¥300-900; 10am-4pm Fri & Mon-Wed, to 5pm Sat & Sun) Perched on a cliff overlooking the harbour, this cafe is a trek up from town (unless you’re scootering), but boasts unbeatable views. It has light snacks like chīzu tōsuto kōhī setto (cheese on toast with coffee; ¥700). Ask for a map and directions at the Tourist Association.
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MIYAKE-JIMA
04994
Miyake-jima, 180km south of Tokyo, is one of the spookiest places in all of Japan. In 2000 its volcano O-yama () erupted again, forcing a temporary evacuation of the island’s residents and destroying many trees. Despite its desolate appearance, Miyake has a good onsen, as well as snorkelling and diving. Tourist facilities remain limited, however.
Information
Miyake-jima Tourism Association (; 5-1144; 8am-5pm) is just up from the ferry pier at Sabi-ga-Hama and on the right. Check here for maps and volcanic gas warnings affecting parts of the island.
Sights & Activities
Since O-yama still emits gas, most of it is off-limits. Entire villages in gas zones, such as Miike () on the east coast near the airport, have been abandoned but they make for fine apocalyptic scenery if you’re scootering through; it’s unsafe to linger. You can contemplate the devastation of lava flows from 1983, preserved at the Ako Junior and Middle School Ruins (), a 15-minute walk north of the ferry pier. Nearby is the onsen Furusato-no-Yu (; 5-0630; adult/child ¥500/250; 11am-9pm Thu-Tue Apr-Sep, to 8pm Thu-Tue Oct-Mar), which has an excellent outdoor bath overlooking the sea and a restaurant. There’s a decent black-sand beach, a picturesque fishing village and diving points at Ōkubo () on the north shore. On the south side of Miyake, naturalists and twitchers may enjoy the bird sanctuary Tairo-ike () and nature centre Akakokko-kan (; 6-0410; adult/child ¥200/free; 9am-4.30pm), named for the rare Izu-shotō thrush (Turdus celaenops).
Sleeping
Camping is not permitted on the island. Santomo (; 5-0532; fax 5-0527; www.asahi-net.or.jp/~di5a-okym/top.html, in Japanese; r from ¥8000; ) is a cheery pension and dive shop, a 10-minute walk north of the ferry pier along the main road. It has nine well-kept Japanese and Western-style rooms, and Japanese breakfasts for ¥800. Dive tours start at ¥6000.
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HACHIJŌ-JIMA
04996
About 290km south of Tokyo, Hachijō-jima is the second-largest and next-to-last island in the Izu-shotō chain. Basically two dormant volcanoes connected by a flat strip of land, it’s a relaxing place to spend a few days away from the Tokyo rat race. The highlight here is climbing Mt Hachijō-Fuji, an easy hike that offers stunning views.
Information
In the centre of the island, Hachijōjima Tourism Association (; 2-1377; 8.15am-5.15pm) is next to the town hall on the