Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [172]
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CHICHI-JIMA
04998
Beautifully preserved, gorgeous Chichi-jima has plenty of accommodation, restaurants, even a bit of tame nightlife. But the real attractions are the excellent beaches and outdoor activities.
Information
Chichi-jima Tourism Association (; 2-2587; 9am-5pm) In the B-Ship building, about 250m west of the pier, near the post office. Ask for the helpful Guide Map of Chichi-jima.
Ogasawara Visitor Center (; 2-3001; 8am-5pm) Right on the beach past the village office, it has displays about the local ecosystem and history (there’s an English guidebook).
Sights & Activities
The two best beaches for snorkelling are on the north side of the island, a short walk over the hill from the village. Miya-no-ura () has decent coral and is sheltered, making it suitable for beginners. About 500m along the coast (more easily accessed from town) is Tsuri-hama (), a rocky beach that has better coral but is more exposed.
Good swimming beaches line the west side of the island, getting better the further south you go. Kominato-kaigan () is the best, easily accessible on this side by bus from town, or some try hitching. From here, you can walk over the hill and along the coast to the excellent Jinny and John beaches, but note that it’s a two-hour walk in each direction and there is no drinking water – bring at least 3L per person. Another fine beach, Copepe, is a short hike north of Kominato.
On Chichi-jima’s east side is the uncrowded Hatsune-ura (), a beach at the bottom of a 1.2km trail with a 200m vertical drop. Going by scooter to the trailhead is the best bet (some also try hitching).
Many operators, including Chichijima Taxi (; 2-3311, in Japanese) offer dolphin swimming and whale-watching, as well as trips to Minami-jima, an uninhabited island with a magical secret beach called Ōgi-ike (). Stanley Minami, skipper of the Pink Dolphin (2-2096; www15.ocn.ne.jp/~pdolphin, in Japanese) runs full-day tours to Minami-jima and Haha-jima for ¥13,500, including snorkelling and dolphin-watching.
Rental scooter is the best way to get around the island (from ¥3000 per day).
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ONLY IN OGASAWARA
When scientists photographed the fabled giant squid Architeuthis for the first time ever in 2004, no wonder it was just off the Ogasawaras. The chain is home to some 60 endangered species, such as the Bonin flying fox. While you’re most likely to run into feral goats and hermit crabs, going jungle-trekking, snorkelling, diving, sea kayaking or on a dolphin cruise virtually guarantees an exciting wildlife experience. Timing is the key: from January to April, humpback whales can come within 500m of shore. And keep looking up! On a clear night, from the top deck of the Ogasawara-maru ferry, you’ll see the Milky Way stretching from horizon to horizon through a breathtaking field of stars. The spectacle makes the Ogasawara islands all the more special.
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Sleeping & Eating
Camping is not permitted on the island.
Banana Inn (; 2-2051; r from ¥4200) Steps from the ferry pier, this humble inn has very basic Japanese- and Western-style rooms but lots of hospitality from owner John Washington, an Ernest Hemingway type who enjoys discussing local history.
Ogasawara Youth Hostel (; 2-2692; fax 2-2692; www.oyh.jp, in Japanese; dm members/nonmembers incl 2 meals ¥5150/5750; ) This is a clean, well-run, regimented hostel about 400m southwest of the pier, near the post office. Be sure to book early as it fills up quickly.
Chichi-jima View Hotel (; 2-7845; fax 2-7846; www16.ocn.ne.jp/~view1; r per person from ¥10,000; ) Just a minute’s walk west of the pier, this hotel has large, airy rooms with private bathroom and kitchen. It’s one of the more upscale places on the island, with super views of the bay from guestroom balconies.
Marujō-shokudō (; 2-3030; set meals from ¥800) This simple shokudō is where the locals come for simple but tasty set meals, such as the sashimi set (¥840, ask for kyō no sashimi teishoku). It’s in a blue-and-white building next to a gift shop.
Yankee Town