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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [173]

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(; 2-3042; drinks ¥700-1200; 8pm-2am Thu-Tue) A 15-minute walk east of the main pier, by the Okumua Sports Ground, this driftwood bar is the perfect spot to chill with a pina colada. Go through the tunnel facing the pier, continue straight until the road bends to the right and you’ll see it on the left with a barbecue pit out front.

Getting There & Away

The Ogasawara-maru sails about once a week between Tokyo’s Takeshiba Pier (10 minutes from Hamamatsu-chō Station) and Chichi-jima (2nd class from ¥28,000 in July and August, from ¥22,000 September to June, 25 hours). Contact Ogasawara Kaiun (; 03-3451-5171; www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp, in Japanese).


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HAHA-JIMA

04998

Haha-jima is a quieter, less developed version of Chichi-jima, with some fine beaches on its west side and good hiking along its spine. Certain bays along the east coast are particularly good for dolphin-watching. If you really want to get away from it all, this is the place.

Information

Haha-jima Tourist Association (;3-2300;8am-5pm) is in the passenger waiting room at the pier.

Sights & Activities

A road runs south from the village to the start of the Minami-zaki Yūhodō (), a hiking course that continues all the way to the Minami-zaki (; literally, ‘southern point’). Along the way you’ll find Hōraine-kaigan (), a narrow beach with a decent offshore coral garden, Wai Beach, the best beach on the island, with a drop-off that sometimes attracts eagle rays, and finally, Minami-zaki itself, which has a rocky, coral-strewn beach with ripping views of smaller islands to the south. Above Minami-zaki you’ll find Kofuji (), an 86m-high mini Mt Fuji with fantastic views in all directions. Scooter is the best way to get around the island (from ¥3000 per day).

Sleeping & Eating

Camping is not permitted on the island.

Anna Beach Haha-jima Youth Hostel (; 3-2468; fax 3-2371; www.k4.dion.ne.jp/~annayh, in Japanese; dm members/nonmembers incl 2 meals ¥5320/5920) A young family runs this tidy, cheery youth hostel in a cosy Canadian-style house overlooking the fishing port.

Minshuku Nanpū (; 3-2462; fax 3-2458; r per person incl 2 meals ¥8400) This clean, new minshuku is about 500m northeast of the pier, with friendly owners, good food, five rooms with large beds, and a nice jet bath.

Club Noah Haha-jima (; 3-2442; http://noah88.web.fc2.com, in Japanese; snacks from ¥500; lunch) Dive shop Club Noah runs jungle-trekking and marine-life ecotours. The menu includes light meals like shima-zakana no soboro-don (grated fish on rice set; ¥900). It’s in a white building on the far side of the fishing port.

Getting There & Away

The Hahajima-maru sails about five times a week between Chichi-jima and Haha-jima (¥3780, two hours). Contact Ogasawara Kaiun (; 03-3451-5171; www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp, in Japanese). Other operators run day cruises from Chichi-jima.


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Central Honshū

* * *


NAGOYA

HISTORY

ORIENTATION

INFORMATION

SIGHTS

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

GETTING AROUND

AROUND NAGOYA

TOKONAME

INUYAMA

AROUND INUYAMA

GIFU

GUJŌ-HACHIMAN

HIDA DISTRICT

TAKAYAMA

HIDA-FURUKAWA

SHIRAKAWA-GŌ & GOKAYAMA

JAPAN ALPS NATIONAL PARK

KAMIKŌCHI

SHIRAHONE ONSEN

HIRAYU ONSEN

FUKUCHI ONSEN

SHIN-HOTAKA ONSEN

NAGANO-KEN

NAGANO

TOGAKUSHI

OBUSE

YUDANAKA

SHIGA KŌGEN

NOZAWA ONSEN

HAKUBA

BESSHO ONSEN

MATSUMOTO

HOTAKA

KISO VALLEY REGION

TOYAMA-KEN

TOYAMA

TATEYAMA-KUROBE ALPEN ROUTE

ISHIKAWA-KEN

KANAZAWA

NOTO-HANTŌ

HAKUSAN NATIONAL PARK

FUKUI-KEN

FUKUI

EIHEI-JI

TŌJINBŌ

TSURUGA

OBAMA

* * *

Japan’s heartland in both geography and attitude, Central Honshū stretches between the two great megalopolises of Kantō (Greater Tokyo) and Kansai (Osaka, Kyoto and Kōbe), between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan. This region is filled with modern commercial centres and traditional towns, the majestic Japan Alps and the rugged northern coastline.

In Central Honshū’s southern prefectures, called ‘Chūbu’ in Japanese, hiking

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