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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [179]

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Apr-20 Jul & Sep-Nov, to 5pm rest of year; Nagoya-kō) is one of Japan’s largest aquariums and is generally a hit with kids. The observation deck of the Port Building (Map; 652-1111; 1-3 Minatomachi; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; Nagoya-kō) seems to be balanced on giant pistons and offers good views of the harbour and Ise Bay from 53m up. There’s a Maritime Museum on the 3rd floor and the Fuji Antarctic Exploration Ship outside. Admission to any of the Port Building attractions is ¥300/200 (adult/child) individually, ¥700/400 for all three, or ¥2400/1200 including the aquarium. Attractions are signposted in English.

Nagoya Port is reached via the Meikō subway line. From central Nagoya, change trains at Kanayama. From Nagoya Station, the journey to Nagoya Port takes approximately 30 minutes.


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FESTIVALS & EVENTS

Atsuta Matsuri Displays of martial arts, sumō and fireworks on 5 June at Atsuta-jingū Click here.

Dekimachi Tennō-sai On the first Saturday and Sunday of June there’s a parade of floats with large karakuri (mechanical puppets) around the shrine, Susano-o-jinja, near the Tokugawa Art Museum.

Nagoya Basho sumō tournament One of six annual championship tournaments, over two weeks in July at Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium (Map; 962-9300; 1-1 Honmaru; tickets from ¥1500). Arrive early in the afternoon to watch the lower-ranked wrestlers up close.

Minato Matsuri Street parade in Nagoya Port, around the third Sunday in July. There’s a traditional parade, street dancers, fireworks and a water-logging contest that dates back to the Edo period.

Nagoya Matsuri Nagoya’s big annual event takes place in mid-October at Hisaya-ōdōri-kōen. It includes costume parades, processions of floats with karakuri puppets, folk dancing, music and a parade of flower-decorated cars.

Kiku-no-hana Taikai Chrysanthemum exhibition at Nagoya-jō in late October to late November. A ningyō (doll) pavilion incorporates flowers into scenes from Japanese history and legend.


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SLEEPING

Accommodation in Nagoya is clustered around Nagoya Station and Sakae. Ryokan listed here do not have en-suite toilet or bath, except where noted. All Western-style hotels listed provide LAN cables for in-room internet access.

Budget

Aichi-ken Seinen-kaikan Youth Hostel (Map; 221-6001; www.jyh.or.jp; 1-18-8 Sakae; dm ¥2992; ; Fushimi, exit 7) This central, 50-bed hostel feels institutional, and there are no elevator or meals. Still, it’s usually the first budget place to fill up. Most options are Japanese-style dorms, while HI members can enjoy private, Western-style rooms (¥4147 double occupancy) with private toilet. Baths are communal and are only available at night. From the station, walk west and take a left after the Hilton, from where it’s two blocks further south. There is an 11pm curfew.

Kimiya Ryokan (Map; 551-0498; hott@hotmail.com; 2-20-16 Nagono; r per person ¥4500, with breakfast/dinner ¥5000/6000; Kokusai Centre, exit 1) This friendly, 14-room, family-run ryokan is good value for its tatami rooms. The best ones overlook the garden. Not much English is spoken, but the owners dispense a helpful map and prepare Japanese meals. From the subway, walk north about five minutes. It’s on the left, with English signage, before Endōji shopping arcade.

Tsuchiya Hotel (Map; 451-0028, toll-free 0120-144-028; www.tsuchiya-hotel.co.jp; 2-16-2 Noritake; r per person from ¥4800; ; Nagoya, west exit) In business for generations, the Tsuchiya oozes character despite its nondescript neighbourhood. Craft-style tiles line the hallways to Japanese-style rooms. Some have private facilities, but you’ll want to use the common baths: a pottery tub in this region’s famous Mino-yaki style for the ladies or stone for the gents. Meals are available with advance notice.

B Nagoya (Map; 241-1500; www.ishinhotels.com; 4-15-23 Sakae; s/d & tw from ¥5000/7500; ; Sakae, exit 13) A business hotel in Sakae that’s as stylish as it is functional. Rooms make up in panache (think PJs with piping and embroidered logos) for what they lack in

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