Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [179]
Nagoya Port is reached via the Meikō subway line. From central Nagoya, change trains at Kanayama. From Nagoya Station, the journey to Nagoya Port takes approximately 30 minutes.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Atsuta Matsuri Displays of martial arts, sumō and fireworks on 5 June at Atsuta-jingū Click here.
Dekimachi Tennō-sai On the first Saturday and Sunday of June there’s a parade of floats with large karakuri (mechanical puppets) around the shrine, Susano-o-jinja, near the Tokugawa Art Museum.
Nagoya Basho sumō tournament One of six annual championship tournaments, over two weeks in July at Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium (Map; 962-9300; 1-1 Honmaru; tickets from ¥1500). Arrive early in the afternoon to watch the lower-ranked wrestlers up close.
Minato Matsuri Street parade in Nagoya Port, around the third Sunday in July. There’s a traditional parade, street dancers, fireworks and a water-logging contest that dates back to the Edo period.
Nagoya Matsuri Nagoya’s big annual event takes place in mid-October at Hisaya-ōdōri-kōen. It includes costume parades, processions of floats with karakuri puppets, folk dancing, music and a parade of flower-decorated cars.
Kiku-no-hana Taikai Chrysanthemum exhibition at Nagoya-jō in late October to late November. A ningyō (doll) pavilion incorporates flowers into scenes from Japanese history and legend.
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SLEEPING
Accommodation in Nagoya is clustered around Nagoya Station and Sakae. Ryokan listed here do not have en-suite toilet or bath, except where noted. All Western-style hotels listed provide LAN cables for in-room internet access.
Budget
Aichi-ken Seinen-kaikan Youth Hostel (Map; 221-6001; www.jyh.or.jp; 1-18-8 Sakae; dm ¥2992; ; Fushimi, exit 7) This central, 50-bed hostel feels institutional, and there are no elevator or meals. Still, it’s usually the first budget place to fill up. Most options are Japanese-style dorms, while HI members can enjoy private, Western-style rooms (¥4147 double occupancy) with private toilet. Baths are communal and are only available at night. From the station, walk west and take a left after the Hilton, from where it’s two blocks further south. There is an 11pm curfew.
Kimiya Ryokan (Map; 551-0498; hott@hotmail.com; 2-20-16 Nagono; r per person ¥4500, with breakfast/dinner ¥5000/6000; Kokusai Centre, exit 1) This friendly, 14-room, family-run ryokan is good value for its tatami rooms. The best ones overlook the garden. Not much English is spoken, but the owners dispense a helpful map and prepare Japanese meals. From the subway, walk north about five minutes. It’s on the left, with English signage, before Endōji shopping arcade.
Tsuchiya Hotel (Map; 451-0028, toll-free 0120-144-028; www.tsuchiya-hotel.co.jp; 2-16-2 Noritake; r per person from ¥4800; ; Nagoya, west exit) In business for generations, the Tsuchiya oozes character despite its nondescript neighbourhood. Craft-style tiles line the hallways to Japanese-style rooms. Some have private facilities, but you’ll want to use the common baths: a pottery tub in this region’s famous Mino-yaki style for the ladies or stone for the gents. Meals are available with advance notice.
B Nagoya (Map; 241-1500; www.ishinhotels.com; 4-15-23 Sakae; s/d & tw from ¥5000/7500; ; Sakae, exit 13) A business hotel in Sakae that’s as stylish as it is functional. Rooms make up in panache (think PJs with piping and embroidered logos) for what they lack in