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Ryokan Meiryū (Map; 331-8686; www.japan-net.ne.jp/~meiryu; 2-4-21 Kamimaezu; s/d/tr ¥5250/8400/11,025; ; Kamimaezu, exit 3) This 22-room ryokan doesn’t look like much from the outside, but inside it’s quite professional, with some English-speaking staff, coin laundry, women’s communal bath and a sauna in the men’s. Home-style Japanese meals are available by reservation. From the station, walk along the street and take the first left. It’s 1½ blocks down, on the left.

Ryokan Marutame (Map; 321-7130; www.jin.ne.jp/marutame; 2-6-17 Tachibana; s/tw ¥5250/8450; Higashi-Betsuin, exit 4) Narrow staircases testify to this ryokan’s 50-plus-year history, yet it’s modern with clean but basic Japanese rooms, English-speaking staff, coin-operated laundry and simple Japanese meals (breakfast/dinner ¥500/1200). Try for the lovely private hanare (apart) room in the back garden. From the station, cross the street, walk past the Nagoya Terebi building and Higashi Betsuin temple and turn right. It’s on the left.

Midrange

Petit Ryokan Ichifuji (Map; 914-2867; www.jin.ne.jp/ichifuji; 1-7 Saikōbashi-dōri, kita-ku; s/d with breakfast from ¥6100/9600; ; Heian-dōri, exit 2 via elevator) Well worth the 20-minute subway ride from Nagoya Station. It’s dramatically lit, clean and comfortable, with designer basins and a communal cypress-wood bath. Japanese-Western fusion dinner (from ¥2480) is available with advance notice; after dinner the dining room turns into a little bar. From the station, walk south for three minutes. The ryokan is signposted in English, down a gravel alley across from the Pola store.

Tōyoko Inn Nagoya-eki Sakura-dōri-guchi Shinkan (Map; 562-1045; www.toyoko-inn.com; 3-9-16 Meieki; s/d & tw ¥6615/8715; ; Nagoya, Sakura-dōri exit) Everyone likes free stuff, and this business hotel offers it: simple Japanese breakfast, water and coffee, internet access and even short phone calls…all before you leave the lobby. It’s almost enough to make up for the microscopic rooms. Note: this is the shinkan (new building); the honkan (original building) is diagonally across the street.

Richmond Hotel Nagoya Nayabashi (Map; 212-1055; www.richmondhotel.jp; 1-2-7 Sakae; s/d/tw from ¥7800/10,800/15,500; ; Fushimi, exit 7) This business hotel offers relatively large, spick-and-span rooms in a minimalist shell, with dark-wood furniture, hi-tech desk lamps and English-language news on flat-panel TVs. Rates quoted here are ‘member’ rates; if you’re not already a member, become one on registration (¥500).

Natural Hotel Elséreine (Map; 459-5344, toll-free 0120-793-489; fax 453-7188; 1-23 Tsubaki-chō; s/tw from ¥11,500/18,480; ; Nagoya, west exit) Walk past the drab business hotels out Meieki’s west exit to this gracious, nonsmoking hotel. Beds of flowering plants grace the lobby. Rooms, while not breaking any size records, are comfy and sparkling clean.

Top End

Nagoya Kankō Hotel (Map; 231-7407; www.nagoyakankohotel.co.jp; 1-19-30 Nishiki; s/d from ¥15,015/23,100; ; Fushimi) This 1970s edifice was recently renovated and now is the kind of place where you’re likely to see politicians followed around by camera crews. There’s an understated Euro elegance to the renovated rooms, which have marble bathrooms, though the unrenovated rooms are less expensive. There’s a fitness centre.

Westin Nagoya Castle (Map; 521-2121; www.castle.co.jp; 3-19 Hinokuchi-chō; s/d from ¥16,000/34,000; ; Sengen-chō) You can’t get closer to Nagoya-jō than this, located across the moat. The Castle is popular for its ‘heavenly beds’, spacious bathrooms, fitness facilities and restaurants. Look for website-only specials. There’s a shuttle bus to/from Nagoya Station.

Hilton Nagoya (Map; 212-1111, toll-free 0120-489-852; www.hilton.com; 1-3-3 Sakae; s/d from ¥16,500/24,500; ; Fushimi, exit 7) A soaring lobby with a piano player and manicured shrubs is your entree to Western-style rooms with Japanese touches such as shōji (rice-paper screens) and blackout panels on the windows. There’s a well-equipped fitness centre and great views