Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [181]
Sofitel the Cypress Nagoya (Map; 571-0111; www.sofitelthecypress.com; 2-43-6 Meieki; s/d from ¥20,000/25,000; ; Nagoya) A quiet atmosphere prevails in this 115-room, European-style hotel with a swanky bar in the basement. Deluxe doubles offer extra space and interesting layouts. From Nagoya Station, exit on the Sakura-dōri side, turn left and cross by the post office.
Nagoya Marriott Associa Hotel (Map; 584-1111; www.associa.com/english/nma; 1-1-2 Meieki; s/d from ¥22,000/30,000; ; Nagoya) The Marriott literally tops other hotels in town. The palmy lobby (accessed via an elevator from Nagoya Station) is on the 15th floor, and 774 spacious rooms start from the 20th, fitted with deluxe, well, everything. The 18th-storey gym has views across the city.
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EATING
Nagoya is famous for bold-flavoured local specialities, which, unlike in many other places in Japan, are also instantly palatable to non-Japanese tastes. Kishimen are flat, handmade wheat noodles, similar to udon (thick white noodles) and nicely chewy; miso-nikomi udon are noodles in hearty miso broth; and miso-katsu is breaded, fried pork cutlet with miso sauce. Kōchin (free-range chicken) is another local speciality, as are tebasaki (chicken wings). Hitsumabushi (charcoal-grilled eel sets) are also popular.
Sekai no Yamachan (Map; 581-1711 in Yanagibashi; 1-5-16 Meieki-Minami; small plates ¥360-630; 11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; Nagoya) This is a cheap and cheerful local chain that’s an institution for tebasaki. The house standard is maboroshino tebasaki (fried chicken wings heady with black pepper; there are five to an order); other small plates include renkon (lotus-root) chips, daikon salad and kimumayo omuretsu (omelette with kimchi and mayonnaise). An English menu is available. Ask at your hotel for the closest branch.
Tarafuku (Map; 566-5600; 3-17-26 Meieki; dishes ¥400-800; dinner; Nagoya) Ambitious, young gourmets have turned the izakaya (pub-eatery) concept on its head, installing a stainless-steel kitchen in what looks from the outside like a falling-down house. East-west fusion dishes might include airy potato croquettes in a fried tofu crust; tomato and eggplant au gratin; house-cured ham, or beef, in wine sauce; plus wine and cocktail lists. There is an omakase (chef’s recommendation) course from ¥3000. No English menu is available, but the staff is game to help. Tarafuku is located diagonally across from both Tōyoko Inns.
Misen (Map; 238-7357; 3-6-3 Ōsu; dishes ¥580-1680; lunch & dinner, until 2am Fri & Sat; Yaba-chō, exit 4) Around the corner from Yabaton, Misen has little atmosphere and no English menu, but the Taiwan rāmen (egg noodles; ¥580) induces rapture – it’s a spicy concoction of ground meat, chilli, garlic and green onion, served over noodles in a hearty clear broth. Other faves include gomoku mame-itame (stir-fried green beans with meat; ¥800) and mabō-dōfu (tofu in spicy meat sauce; ¥700).
Tiger Café (Map; 220-0031; 1-8-26 Nishiki; mains ¥600-2000, specials from ¥850; 11am-3am Mon-Sat, to 11pm Sun; Fushimi) Fashionistas grace the windows of this faithful re-creation of an old-style Parisian bistro, with tiled floors, white-shirted staff, sidewalk seating, art deco details and people smoking (even though you can’t smoke in Paris bistros anymore). The smoked-salmon sandwich and croque-monsieur (toasted ham and cheese sandwich) are favourites, as are the good-value lunch specials.
Ebisuya (Map; 961-3412; 3-20-7 Sakae; dishes from ¥650; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; Sakae) One of the city’s best-known kishimen chains, Ebisuya has a laid-back atmosphere and tasty, inexpensive bowls of noodles, which you can often catch the chefs making. There’s a picture menu available.
Yabaton (Map; 252-8810; 3-6-18 Ōsu; dishes ¥735-1575; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun; Yaba-chō, exit 4) Throw dietary caution to the wind at this spotless, workmanlike institution for miso-katsu, which has been around since 1947. Waraji-tonkatsu is a cutlet flattened to as big as your head, or try kani-korokke (crab