Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [182]
Torigin Honten (Map; 973-3000; 3-14-22 Nishiki; dishes ¥750-1950; dinner; Sakae) For top kōchin, Torigin has been going strong for decades. Chicken is served in many forms, including kushiyaki (skewered), kara-age (deep-fried pieces), zōsui (mild rice hotpot) and sashimi (what you think it is). Individual dishes are a bit dainty for the price, but teishoku (set menus; from ¥3000) are more substantial. It’s next door to St James Gate Irish pub. A menu in English is available.
Eikoku-ya (Map; 763-2788; 2-58 Kakuōzan; mains ¥950-1600; 8am-9.30pm Wed-Mon; Kakuōzan) You’ll smell the aroma of curry several doors down from this Indian chai-and-curry shop, at the heart of Kakuōzan’s shopping street. Curries and mixed grills are served in a room from a bygone era. Look for the elephant statues out front.
Yamamotoya Sōhonke (Map; 241-5617; 3-12-19 Sakae; dishes ¥976-1554; lunch & dinner; Sakae, Yaba-chō) This miso-nikomi udon shop has been in business since 1925, thanks to a lot of repeat customers. The basic dish costs ¥976. It’s not really close to any subway station; it’s a couple of blocks east of Shirakawa-kōen.
Atsuta Hōraiken (Map; 671-8686; 503 Kōbe-chō, Honten; mains ¥1575-4305; lunch & dinner, closed Mon; Temma-chō) This hitsumabushi shop, in business since 1873, is revered with good reason. Expect long queues during the summer peak season for hitsumabushi, basted in a secret tare (sauce) and served atop rice in a covered lacquered bowl (¥2730); add green onion, wasabi and dashi (fish broth) to your taste. Other teishoku include chicken, tempura and steak. There’s another branch (Map; 682-5598; 2-10-26 Jingū, Atsuta-ku; open lunch and dinner, closed Tuesday; the nearest station is Jingū-minami) a few blocks away, near Atsuta-jingū. The main branch has more atmosphere but also more smokers.
For cheap, informal, international eats, head to the Ōsu district. Expect to hear Portuguese at Osso Brasil (Map; 238-5151; 3-41-13 Ōsu; mains ¥700-1500; 10.30am-9pm Tue-Sun; Kamimaezu, exit 8), a storefront serving Brazilian grills at lunchtime (all-you-can-eat on weekends, ¥1600) and snacks, while Lee’s Taiwan Kitchen (Map; 251-8992; 3-21-8 Ōsu; mains around ¥450; noon-8pm, closed 3rd Wed each month; Kamimaezu, exit 8) does a big trade in take-out crackly kara-age. Other stands run from kebabs to crêpes to okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes).
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DRINKING
Eric Life (Map; 222-1555; 2-11-18 Ōsu; noon-midnight Thu-Tue; Ōsu Kannon, exit 2) Minimalist, kitsch-free and a teeny bit artsy, this cafe behind Ōsu Kannon temple is perfect for chilling over a coffee, cocktail or snack. Being in the Ōsu district, it draws a youngish crowd.
Smash Head (Map; 201-2790; 2-21-90 Ōsu; noon-midnight Wed-Mon; Ōsu Kannon, exit 2) Just north of Ōsu Kannon temple, this low-key spot is both a pub and a motorcycle repair shop (no, really), where Guinness is the beverage of choice. But don’t drink and ride or you may end up a…you know…
Shooters (Map; 202-7077; www.shooters-nagoya.com; 2-9-26 Sakae; 5pm-3am Mon-Fri, 11.30am-3am Sat & Sun; Fushimi, exit 5) This US-style sports bar with over a dozen screens attracts a mostly gaijin (foreign), mostly raucous crowd. Japanese and foreign staff pour daily drink specials, and the menu includes burgers, pasta and Tex-Mex. It’s on the 2nd floor of the Pola Building, diagonally across from Misono-za.
Elephant’s Nest (Map; 232-4360; 1-4-3 Sakae; 5.30pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; Fushimi, exit 7) Near the Hilton, Elephant’s Nest is a favourite expat haunt, with a welcoming vibe, darts and traditional English fare. It’s on the 2nd floor.
Red Rock Bar & Grill (Map; 262-7893; www.theredrock.jp; 4-14-6 Sakae; 5.30pm-late Tue-Sun; Sakae, exit 13) On a Sakae side street, the Aussie-owned Red Rock has a warm ambience and plenty of pub food. Look for happy hours and specials such as Ladies’ Night and Quiz Night.
Ichirin (Map; 751-1953;