Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [190]
Gujō-Hachiman’s other attractions include the tiny hilltop castle Gujō Hachiman-jō (; 65-5839; adult/child ¥300/150; 8am-6pm Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Sep-Nov & Mar-May, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Feb), which had been a humble fortress dating back to about 1600; the current, grander building dates from only 1933. It contains weapons, armour and the like, and offers fine views. From the bus terminal it’s about 20 minutes’ walk.
The town is also known for its waterways. A famous spring, Sōgi-sui, near the centre of town, is something of a pilgrimage site, named for a Momoyama-era poet. People who rank such things place Sōgi-sui at the top of the list for clarity.
Gujō Tōsen-ji Youth Hostel (; 67-0290; fax 67-0549; dm ¥3300; closed mid-Aug; ) is an attractively refurnished hostel with private rooms pleasantly situated on the grounds of a temple. There is no bath on the premises, but there’s a sentō (public bath) nearby. Breakfast is ¥500.
Bizenya Ryokan (; 65-2068; fax 67-0007; r per person with 2 meals from ¥11,550; ) boasts large rooms, some with private facilities, around a handsome garden. This 30-bed ryokan provides a relaxing, quietly upscale experience. It’s located between the bus terminal and tourist office.
The most convenient access to Gujō-Hachiman is via bus from Gifu (¥1560, one hour, hourly). The private Nagaragawa Tetsudō line serves Gujō-Hachiman from Mino-Ōta (¥1320, 80 minutes, hourly), with connections via the JR Takayama line to Nagoya (¥1110, one hour) and Takayama (tokkyū, ¥4180, 1¾ hours; futsū, ¥1890, three hours). Buses also journey from Nagoya (¥3500, three hours). Central Gujō-Hachiman is easily walkable, or bicycles are available for rent (¥300/1500 per hour/day).
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HIDA DISTRICT
The centrepiece of this ancient, mountainous region is the handsome town of Takayama, known for merchant houses, temples and a strong craft tradition. Hida’s signature architectural style is the thatch-roofed gasshō-zukuri (see the boxed text), while its culinary fame rests in Hida-gyū (local beef), hoba-miso (sweet miso paste grilled at the table on a magnolia leaf) and soba.
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TAKAYAMA
0577 / pop 95,300
With its old inns, shops and sake breweries, Takayama is a rarity: a 21st-century city (admittedly a small one) that’s also retained its traditional charm. Vibrant morning markets, hillside shrines and a laid-back populace add to the town’s allure, and it should be a high priority on any visit to Central Honshū. Give yourself at least two days to enjoy the place; it’s easily tackled on foot or bicycle.
Takayama was established in the late 16th century as the castle town of the Kanamori clan, but in 1692 it was placed under direct control of the bakufu (shōgunate) in Edo. The present layout dates from the Kanamori period, and its sights include more than a dozen museums, galleries and exhibitions that cover lacquer and lion masks, folk craft and architecture.
Takayama remains the region’s administrative and transport hub, and it makes a good base for trips around Hida and Japan Alps National Park.
Orientation
All of the main sights except Hida-no-Sato (Hida Folk Village) are in the centre of town, within walking distance of the station. Northeast of the station, Kokubun-ji-dōri, the main street, heads east, across the Miya-gawa (about 10 minutes’ walk), where it becomes Yasugawa-dōri. South of Yasugawa-dōri is the historic, picturesque Sanmachi-suji (Sanmachi district) of immaculately preserved old homes. On signage, look for (furui machinami) or ‘Old Private Homes’ in English.
Hida-no-Sato is a 10-minute bus ride west of the station.
Information
Takayama’s main tourist information office (32-5328; 8.30am-5pm Nov-Mar, to 6.30pm Apr-Oct), directly in front of JR Takayama Station, has