Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [191]
To arrange a home visit, home stay or volunteer interpreter for non-Japanese languages (including sign language), contact the city’s International Affairs Office (32-3333, ext 2407; 2-18 Hanaoka), located inside the Takayama Municipal Office building, one month in advance.
Internet access is available at the city library (32-3096; 9.30am-9.30pm), east of Sanmachi-suji, and Takayama Municipal Office (2-18 Hanaoka; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri), which has two computers.
Jūroku Bank can change cash or travellers cheques. For ATM users, the main post office (Hirokōji-dōri) is located a few blocks east of the station, and Ōgaki Kyōritsu Bank, with foreign-card ATMs, is southeast of the station and also near the Miya-gawa Morning Market.
For onward bus or train reservations within Japan, try Kinki Nippon Tourist (32-6901; 1-17 Hanaoka-machi).
Sights & Activities
SANMACHI-SUJI
The centre of the old town, this district of three main streets (Ichi-no-Machi, Ni-no-Machi and San-no-Machi) is lined with traditional shops, restaurants and museums. Sake breweries are easily recognised by the spheres of cedar fronds: some open to the public in January and early February (the schedule is available at tourist offices); most of the year they just sell their wares. For beautiful night-time shots, bring a tripod and set your camera’s exposure to long.
Fujii Folkcraft Art Gallery (Fujii Bijutsu Minzoku-kan; 35-3778; 69 San-no-Machi; adult/child ¥700/350; 9am-5pm, often closed Tue-Fri early Dec-early Mar) is a private collection in an old merchant’s house, with folk craft and ceramics, particularly from the Muromachi and Edo periods. Hida Folk Archaeological Museum (Hida Minzoku Kōkō-kan; 32-1980; 82 San-no-Machi; adult/child/high- & junior-high-school student ¥500/200/300; 8.30am-5pm Mar-Nov, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Feb) is a former samurai house boasting interesting secret passageways and an old well in the courtyard.
Takayama Museum of Local History (32-1205; 75 Ichi-no-Machi; adult/child ¥300/150; 8.30am-5pm Mar-Nov, 9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Dec-Feb) is devoted to the crafts and traditions of the region, with images carved by Enkū, a woodcarving priest who wandered the region in the 17th century. There are also several small but nicely maintained gardens.
TAKAYAMA-JINYA
These sprawling grounds south of the Sanmachi district house the only remaining prefectural office building of the Tokugawa shōgunate. Takayama-jinya (Historical Government House; 32-0643; 1-5 Hachiken-machi; adult/child ¥420/free; 8.45am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb) was originally built in 1615 as the administrative centre for the Kanamori clan but was later taken over by the bakufu. The main gate was once reserved for high officials. The present main building dates back to 1816 and it was used as the local government office until 1969.
As well as government offices, a rice granary and a garden, there’s a torture chamber with explanatory detail. Free guided tours in English are available (reservations advised). Takayama-jinya is a 15-minute walk east of the train station.
MERCHANT HOUSES
North of Sanmachi are two excellent examples of Edo-period merchants’ homes, with the living quarters in one section and the commercial/warehouse areas in another. Design buffs shouldn’t miss Yoshijima-ke (Yoshijima house; 32-0038; 1-51 Ōshinmachi; adult/child ¥500/300; 9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Wed-Sun Dec-Feb), which is well covered in architectural publications. Its lack of ornamentation allows you to focus on the spare lines, soaring roof and skylight. Admission includes a cup of delicious shiitake tea, which you can also purchase for ¥600 per can.
Down the block, Kusakabe Mingeikan (Kusakabe Folk Art Museum;