Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [193]
TERAMACHI & SHIROYAMA-KŌEN
The hilly districts in the east of town are linked by a walking trail, which is particularly enjoyable in the early morning or late afternoon. Teramachi has over a dozen temples (one houses a youth hostel) and shrines that you can wander around before taking in the greenery of Shiroyama-kōen. Various trails lead through the park and up the mountainside to the ruins of the castle, Takayama-jō. As you descend, take a look at Shōren-ji, a temple that was transferred to this site from the Shōkawa Valley when a dam was built there in 1960.
The walk takes a leisurely two hours, plus a 10-minute walk back to the centre of town. Get a map and temple descriptions at the tourist information office.
HIDA-NO-SATO
The large, open-air Hida-no-Sato (Hida Folk Village; 34-4711; 1-590 Okamoto-chō; adult/child ¥700/200; 8.30am-5pm) is highly recommended for its dozens of traditional houses, dismantled at their original sites throughout the region and rebuilt here. Allow at least three hours. During clear weather, there are good views across the town to the peaks of the Japan Alps.
Hida-no-Sato is in two sections. The western section features 12 old houses and a complex of traditional buildings (see the boxed text). Displays are well presented and offer an excellent chance to see what rural life was like in previous centuries.
The eastern section of the village is centred on Omoide Taikenkan, where you can try your hand at making things such as candles and sembei (rice crackers). Other buildings include the Go-kura Storehouse (used for storage of rice as payment of taxes) and the Museum of Mountain Life.
Hida-no-Sato is a 30-minute walk west from Takayama Station, but the route is not enjoyable. Either hire a bicycle, or catch a bus from Takayama bus station (¥200, 10 minutes). The ‘Hida-no-Sato setto ken’ ticket combines return fare and admission to the park for ¥900. Be sure to check return times for the bus.
SŪKYŌ MAHIKARI MAIN WORLD SHRINE
Gleaming above Takayama’s western skyline is the golden roof of the Main World Shrine (34-7008; admission free; 8.30am-4.30pm, except during religious observances) of Sūkyō Mahikari, a new religion whose teachings are said to include healing via training courses and amulets that transmit divine light rays. Guided tours are available (call in advance for an English-speaking guide).
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GASSHŌ-ZUKURI ARCHITECTURE
Winter in the Hida region can be fierce, and inhabitants faced snow and cold long before the advent of propane heaters and 4WD vehicles. One of the most visible symbols of that adaptability is gasshō-zukuri architecture, seen in the steeply slanted straw-roofed homes that still dot the landscape around the region.
The sharply angled roofs were designed to prevent heavy snow accumulation, a serious concern in a region where nearly all mountain roads close from December to April. The name gasshō comes from the Japanese word for praying, because the shape of the roofs was thought to resemble two hands clasped in prayer. Gasshō buildings often featured pillars crafted from stout cedars to lend extra support. The attic areas were ideal for silk cultivation.
Larger gasshō-zukuri buildings were inhabited by wealthy families, with up to 30 people under one roof. Peasant families lived in huts of the size that are now used as tool sheds.
Development has made the gasshō-zukuri building an endangered species. Most examples have been gathered and preserved in folk villages, including Hida-no-Sato in Takayama and in Shirakawa-gō Click here and Gokayama. So, two homes that are now neighbours may once have been separated by several days of travel on foot or sled. Local authorities have worked hard to re-create their natural surroundings,