Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [194]
* * *
Festivals & Events
One of Japan’s greatest festivals, the Takayama Matsuri, is in two parts. On 14 and 15 April is the Sannō Matsuri; a dozen yatai, decorated with carvings, dolls, colourful curtains and blinds, are paraded through the town. In the evening the floats are decked out with lanterns and the procession is accompanied by sacred music. Hachiman Matsuri, on 9 and 10 October, is a slightly smaller version (Click here).
From January to early February several of the sake breweries in Sanmachi-suji Click here, many dating back to the Edo period, arrange tours and tastings.
Sleeping
One of Takayama’s pleasures is its variety of high-quality accommodation, both Japanese and Western, for all budgets. If visiting during festival times, book accommodation months in advance and expect to pay a 20% premium, or just commute in. The tourist information office can assist with lodging information.
BUDGET
Hida Takayama Temple Inn Zenkō-ji (32-8470; www.geocities.jp/zenkojitakayama; 4-3 Tenman-chō; dm/r per person ¥2500/3000) At this temple (a branch of Nagano’s famous Zenkō-ji, Click here), private-use rooms are generously proportioned around a courtyard garden, and even the dorm-style rooms are handsome. There’s a kitchen for guest use, no curfew and a master who speaks excellent English. If you want, you can practise Jōdō-style meditation in the main hall.
Hida Takayama Tenshō-ji Youth Hostel (32-6345; fax 32-6392; 83 Tenshōji-machi; dm members/non-members ¥3150/3500; ) This peaceful hostel (with a rather early 9.45pm curfew) occupies an attractive hillside temple in Teramachi. Rooms are Japanese-style, you have a choice of shower near the rooms or small bath on the other side of the temple, and breakfast is available (¥630). Add ¥1000 per room to have it to yourself (subject to availability). The hostel is a 20-minute walk from the train station, or there’s an infrequent bus service.
Rickshaw Inn (32-2890; www.rickshawinn.com; 54 Suehiro-chō; s without bathroom from ¥4900, tw with/without bathroom from ¥11,900/10,200; ) Excellent value and a travellers’ favourite, with pleasant Japanese- and Western-style rooms, a small kitchen, laundry facilities and a cosy lounge. Friendly English-speaking owners are founts of information about Takayama. Book well in advance.
Sōsuke (32-0818; fax 33-5570; www.irori-sosuke.com; 1-64 Okamoto-machi; r per person ¥5040; ) West of the train station, Sōsuke has 13 pleasant tatami rooms, some with skylights and paper lanterns. English-speaking staff prepares excellent dinners (¥2100) and breakfasts (¥645), served at hori-kotatsu (low tables with a well beneath for your feet), including meals for vegetarians. The handsomely updated building dates from the 1800s and includes an irori (hearth). It’s across a busy road from the hulking Takayama Green Hotel.
MIDRANGE
Spa Hotel Alpina (33-0033; www.spa-hotel-alpina.com, in Japanese; 5-41 Nada-cho; s/tw from ¥6300/11,000; ) This business hotel, which opened in 2008, is minimalist without being cold – crisp bedding, modular bathrooms and a variety of room types. The best part, though, is the onsen baths on the top floor, including rotemburo, with views across the city. The breakfast buffet is ¥700. Some of the staff members speak English and can respond to email enquiries sent via the website. LAN cable is available.
Minshuku Kuwataniya (32-5021; fax 36-3835; www.kuwataniya.com; 1-50-30 Sowa-machi; r per person with/without bathroom ¥6450/4350; ) Takayama’s longest-running minshuku (home-style accommodation; since the 1920s) has both Japanese- and Western-style rooms, high-def TVs (Japanese channels), simple onsen baths and free bicycle use. Dinner (available for ¥2310) features Hida’s famed beef (vegetarian options are available with advance notice), and breakfast is ¥840. It’s half a block north of Hida Kokubun-ji.
Ryokan Gōdo (/fax 33-0870; San-no-Machi; r per person from ¥6825) The very traditional five-room Gōdo lies in the heart of Sanmachi-suji, positioning you