Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [195]
Yamakyū (32-3756; www.takayama-yamakyu.com; 58 Tenshōji; r with 2 meals ¥7980; ) This hillside inn, near the temples on the eastern side of town, is lined with antique-filled curio cabinets (glassware, tea bowls, the occasional bit of kitsch). Thanks to a recent makeover, each of its 20 comfy tatami rooms has a sink and toilet, while bathing is in the signature water-wheel common baths. Some English is spoken. Yamakyū’s about 20 minutes’ walk from the station; staff can arrange for luggage pick-up with a couple of days’ notice.
Best Western Hotel (37-2000; www.bestwestern.co.jp; 6-6 Hanasato-machi; s/d/tw from ¥9500/13,000/18,000; ) Very popular among overseas guests, this 78-room Western-style hotel offers crisp service and spacious, comfortably furnished rooms. There’s a lounge and restaurant on-site, and LAN access from rooms. It’s a block from the station.
Sumiyoshi Ryokan (32-0228; www.sumiyoshi-ryokan.com; 4-21 Hon-machi; r per person with 2 meals from ¥11,550; ) This delightfully traditional inn is set in an old merchant’s house from the late Meiji period and is filled with antiques. Some rooms have river views through windows of antique glass, and the common baths are made of wood and slate tiles. One room has a private bath (¥13,650).
TOP END
Hotel Associa Takayama Resort (; 36-0001; www.associa.com/tky; 1134 Echigo-chō; s/tw with breakfast from ¥13,800/21,600; ) If you find Takayama too historic, the Associa’s three towers south of town provide an escape back to the 21st century. The 290 rooms are either Western or Japanese style, as are the restaurants (dinner is approximately ¥6000 per person). The real showpiece is the three-storey, valley-view onsen baths and rotemburo. The Associa’s about 10 minutes from town, and there’s a shuttle-bus service. Guests can deposit luggage at the hotel’s Café Scenery, just outside the station exit, for transport to the hotel.
Tanabe Ryokan (32-0529; fax 35-1955; www.tanabe-ryokan.jp; 58 Aioi-chō; r per person with 2 meals from ¥15,000; ) Central, family-run inn with sweet, welcoming staff. There’s art throughout, stone paths line the carpeted hallways, the 21 rooms are spacious, and dinner is kaiseki-style Hida cuisine. Rooms have en-suite bath, but the common baths with their beamed ceilings are worth a try. Some English is spoken.
Asunaro Ryokan (33-5551, toll-free 0120-052-536; www.yado-asunaro.com; 2-96 Hatsuda-machi; r per person with 2 meals with/without bathroom from ¥15,750/13,650; ) This excellent ryokan has handsome tatami rooms, a spacious onsen bath and decadent dinners and breakfasts. Several rooms have irori, and some have private bathrooms (all have toilets). The staff speaks some English.
Eating
Takayama’s specialities include soba, hoba-miso, sansai (mountain vegetables) and Hida-gyū, among Japan’s top grades. You’re likely to find many of these in meals at your inn. Street foods include mitarashi-dango (skewers of grilled riceballs seasoned with soy sauce), shio-sembei (salty rice crackers), and Hida-gyū served up on kushiyaki (skewers) and in korokke (croquettes) and niku-man (steamed buns).
Origin (36-4655; 4-108 Hanasato-chō; most dishes ¥315-819; dinner) This wonderful local izakaya located a minute from the station has the usual kushiyaki and tofu steak, plus original dishes like sardines rolled in yuba (tofu skin), or big-as-a-beer-can grilled daikon in miso sauce. Or go for broke with Hida beef (¥1575). Look for the bamboo poles out the front. There’s an English menu.
Jingoro Rāmen (34-5565; mains from ¥600; 10.30am-2.30pm & 8pm-2am, closed dinner Sun & some Mon) Like a roadhouse south of the station, Takayama’s most venerable rāmen restaurant is a simple affair – broth, noodles and pork (or not) – but the savoury results are extremely satisfying. An English menu