Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [210]
On the hill above the Okusha bus stop, the highlight of the Togakushi Minzoku-kan (; 254-2395; adult/child ¥500/350; 9am-5pm mid-Apr–mid-Nov) is the ‘ninja house’, cleverly concocted with trick doors, hidden staircases, a room that slopes upwards and others from which there is seemingly NO ESCAPE! It pays tribute to the days when yamabushi (mountain monks) practised here, at what became the forerunner to ninpo (the art of stealth, as practised by ninja). Other buildings at Minzoku-kan contain museums of ninpo and local folklore.
In Chūsha, Yokokura Ryokan (; 254-2030; dm ¥3045, with 2 meals ¥5065, r per person incl 2 meals from ¥7200) is in a thatch-roofed building from the early Meiji era, about 150m from the steps up to Chūsha. It’s both a hostel and a ryokan, with tatami-room dorms (gender-separate) and private rooms. Uzura Soba (; 254-2219; dishes ¥800-1700; lunch) serves handmade soba noodles until they run out. It’s directly across from the steps to the shrine.
By Okusha bus stop, Okusha no Chaya (; 254-2222; mains ¥530-1480; 10am-4.30pm late Apr-late Nov; ) serves fresh soba in a minimalist, contemporary setting behind a glass wall that overlooks the forest; ice cream comes in seasonal flavours such as tomato, chestnut and wasabi.
Buses via the scenic routes from Nagano depart approximately hourly (7am to 7pm) and arrive at Chūsha-Miyamae bus stop by Chūsha shrine in about an hour (one way/return ¥1160/2100). To Okusha the one-way/return fare is ¥1280/2300. The Togakushi Kōgen Free Kippu pass (¥2500) gives unlimited rides on buses to and around Togakushi for three days. Buy tickets at Kawanakajima Bus Co (229-6200), inside the Alpico Bus office by bus stop 7 in front of Nagano Station’s Zenkō-ji exit.
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OBUSE
026 / pop 11,600
This little town northeast of Nagano occupies a big place in Japanese art history. The famed ukiyo-e (wood-block print) artist Hokusai (1760–1849) worked here during his last years. Obuse is also noted for its kuri (chestnuts), which you can sample steamed with rice or in ice cream or sweets.
The first stop should be Hokusai-kan (; 247-5206; adult/child/high-school student ¥500/free/300; 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar), displaying some 30 of Hokusai’s inspiring prints at any one time, as well as several colourful floats decorated with his imaginative ceiling panels. From the train station, cross the street and walk down the road perpendicular to the station; take the second right, then look for signs to the museum. It’s a 10-minute walk from the station.
A block away, Hokusai’s patron, Takai Kōzan, is commemorated in the Takai Kōzan Kinenkan (; 247-4049; admission ¥300; 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar). This businessman was also an accomplished artist, albeit of more classical forms than Hokusai’s; look for elegant Chinese-style landscapes.
Among Obuse’s nine other museums, Nihon no Akari Hakubutsukan (; Japanese Lamp & Lighting Museum; 247-5669; adult/child/student ¥500/300/400; 9am-5pm late Mar-late Nov, 9.30am-4.30pm late Nov-late Mar, closed Wed except May, Aug, Oct, Nov) showcases lighting through Japanese history, including oil lamps and lanterns that will flip the switches of design fans. Taikan Bonsai Museum (; 247-3000; adult/child ¥500/300 Apr-Nov, ¥300/free Dec-Mar; 9am-5pm) displays rare species and represents different Japanese landscapes.
Sample chestnut confections at Chikufūdō (; 247-2569; 8am-7pm), established in 1893. Dorayakisan (chestnut paste in pancake dumplings) are the standard.
Obuse is reached via the Nagano Dentetsu (Nagaden) line from Nagano (tokkyū, ¥750, 22 minutes; futsū, ¥650, 35 minutes). Obtain maps and info and hire bikes (¥400 per half-day) at Obuse Guide Centre (; 247-5050; 9am-5pm), en route to the museums from the station.
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YUDANAKA
0269
This onsen village is known as the home of Japan’s famous ‘snow monkeys’, a troop of some 200 Japanese