Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [211]
Across the river from Jigokudani, Kōraku-kan (; 33-4376; r per person with 2 meals from ¥10,545, onsen only adult/child ¥500/250; 8-10am & noon-3.30pm) is a simple onsen hotel. Accommodation is basic, with small but clean-swept tatami rooms. Aside from the mountain vegetable tempura for overnight visitors, the highlight is the indoor and concrete riverside outdoor onsen. Bathe in the great outdoors, and some uninvited guests – of the decidedly hairy variety – may join you.
In peaceful central Yudanaka, Uotoshi Ryokan (; 33-1215; www.avis.ne.jp/~miyasaka/; s/d/tr/q from ¥4300/7980/11,970/15,960; ) is basic but commendably hospitable. The English-speaking owner will demonstrate and let you try kyūdō (Japanese archery), pick you up at Yudanaka Station, or drop you off near the start of the Monkey Park trail on request. Dinner (from ¥2520) and breakfast (from ¥530) are available. From the station (seven minutes), walk left and follow the road over the river; when the road ends turn right. It’s 20m further on.
From Nagano, take the Nagano Dentetsu (Nagaden) line to Yudanaka terminus (tokkyū, ¥1230, 45 minutes; futsū, ¥1130, 1¼ hours); note that not all trains go all the way to Yudanaka. For Jigokudani Monkey Park, take the bus for Kanbayashi Onsen Guchi and get off at Kanbayashi Onsen (¥220, 15 minutes, eight daily), walk uphill along the road about 400m, and you’ll see a sign reading ‘Monkey Park’ at the start of a tree-lined 1.6km walk.
Return to beginning of chapter
SHIGA KŌGEN
0269
The site of several events in the 1998 Nagano Olympics, Shiga Kōgen (34-2404; www.shigakogen.gr.jp/english; 1-day lift ticket ¥4800; 8.30am-4.30pm Dec-Apr) is Japan’s largest ski resort and one of the largest in the world: 21 linked areas covering 80 runs. One lift ticket gives access to all areas as well as the shuttle bus between the various base lodges. There is a huge variety of terrain for all skill levels, as well as ski-only areas. Shiga Kōgen Tourist Office (; 34-2323; 9am-5pm) has English speakers who can help you navigate the slopes and can book accommodation. It’s in front of the Shiga Kōgen ropeway station.
Due to its sprawling size, skiers will need to plan carefully or spend their first day at the resort making a full reconnaissance, and then spend the following days at their favourite spots. If you’ve got limited time, base yourself somewhere central like the Ichinose Family Ski Area, which has a central location and wide variety of accommodation and restaurants. You could also start at the Yakebitai area and work your way gradually down the length of the entire resort, taking the bus back up when you’re done.
The Nishitateyama area has good wide runs and generally ungroomed terrain. The Terakoya area is a little hard to get to but it is generally uncrowded and has good short runs and a pleasant atmosphere. Skiers who don’t play well with snowboarders will be happiest at the Kumanoyu area.
During the rest of the year, the mountains’ lakes, ponds and overlooks make an excellent destination for hikers.
* * *
SHINSHū CUISINE: A ROGUE’S GALLERY
Nagano-ken is renowned for foods from the familiar to the, shall we say, challenging. You’ll know a food is local if the name is preceded by Shinshū (), the region’s ancient name. From the tamest, look for the following:
ringo (): apples, often as big as grapefruits. Ubiquitous in autumn.
kuri (): chestnuts, especially in Obuse.
soba (): buckwheat noodles, handmade from 100% buckwheat