Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [212]
oyaki (): little wheat buns filled with vegetables, baked or steamed.
wasabi (): Japanese horseradish, grown in bogs particularly in Hotaka. You know grated wasabi from sushi and soba, and locals parboil the greens as drinking snacks. Some shops sell wasabi in cakes and ice cream.
basashi (): raw horse meat
hachinoko (): bee larvae
inago (): crickets
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Sleeping & Eating
Hotels are scattered the length of Shiga Kōgen, clustered at the bases of the different areas. It makes sense to choose one near the base of your favourite area. Hotel Shirakabasō (; 34-3311; www.shirakaba.co.jp/english/index.html; r per person with 2 meals from ¥11,700; ), close to the cable-car base station and the Sun Valley ski area, is a pleasant little hotel with a variety of rooms and its own indoor and outdoor onsen baths. Near the base of the Kumanoyu ski area, the large Hotel Heights Shiga Kōgen (; 34-3030; www.shigakogen.jp/heights/english/index.htm; r per person with 2 meals from ¥9500) boasts clean Japanese- and Western-style rooms and its own onsen. Staff are used to foreign guests and, upon request, make some concessions to foreign palates in the dining room.
Another place that caters to a Western crowd is the Hotel Sunroute Shiga Kōgen (; 34-2020; www.shigakogen.com/hotel/sunroute, in Japanese; r per person with 2 meals from ¥10,500). It’s located in the Ichinose village, only a three-minute walk to the Ichinose Diamond ski lift, with great access to other ski areas. The rooms are Western style with en-suite baths, and some have mountain views.
Villa Ichinose (; 34-2704; www.villa101.biz/english/index.htm; r per person from ¥4800; ) is popular with foreigners, and its location in front of the Ichinose bus stop can’t be beat. There are Japanese-style rooms (toilet only), and Western-style rooms with a bathroom. There is wireless internet in the lobby and a 24-hour public bath on the 2nd floor. It has English-speaking staff and a friendly atmosphere.
Also convenient to the slopes is the Chalet Shiga (; 34-2235; www.shigakogen.jp/chalet; r per person with 2 meals from ¥11,500), a nice place with clean Western- and Japanese-style rooms and a popular sports bar.
Getting There & Away
Direct buses run between Nagano Station and Shiga Kōgen, with frequent departures in ski season (¥1600, 70 minutes). You can also take a train from Nagano to Yudanaka and continue to Shiga Kōgen by bus – take a Hase-ike-bound bus and get off at the last stop (¥760, approximately 40 minutes).
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NOZAWA ONSEN
0269 / pop 4050
A compact town that is tucked into a corner of the eastern Japan Alps, Nozawa Onsen is the quintessential Japanese onsen/ski resort. Nozawa feels like a Swiss ski resort, and you may wonder where you are – until you see a sign written entirely in kanji. Although Nozawa is worth visiting any time of year, skiing is the main attraction for foreign visitors.
On 15 January there is the ‘Dosojin’ fire festival, one of the three most famous fire festivals in Japan, to pray for good fortune and a plentiful harvest in the coming year.
Sights & Activities
NOZAWA ONSEN SKI RESORT
The town is dominated by the Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort (85-3166; www.nozawaski.com/winter/en/; 1-day lift ticket ¥4600; Dec-Apr), which is one of Honshū’s best. The ski area here is more compact than, say, nearby Shiga Kōgen, and it’s relatively easy to navigate and enjoy. The main base area is right around the Higake gondola station. There is a good variety of terrain at all levels, and snowboarders should try the Karasawa terrain park or the half-pipe at Uenotaira. Advanced skiers will enjoy the steep and often mogulled Schneider Course, while beginners and families will enjoy the Higake Course.
For on-slope refreshments, try the rest house at Uenotaira gondola station, which has a standard-issue restaurant and snack bar. There’s another