Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [213]
Snowshoe tours are available from the end of January, organised by the Nozawa Onsen ski school (85-2623; tours per person ¥4000, snowshoe rental ¥1000; Tue, Thu & Sat 20 Jan-31 Mar), and there is a snow bus tour (85-2506; ¥500; six times daily) from 5 January to 29 March from the rest house at Yunomine.
ONSEN
After skiing or hiking, check out the 13 free onsen (6am-11pm) dotted about the town. Our favourite is Ō-yu, with its fine wooden building, followed by the scalding-hot Shin-yu, and the atmospheric old Kuma-no-tearai (Bear’s Bathroom). The locals like to say about some of these that they’re so hot ‘humans can’t even enter’. If you have silver jewellery, leave it in your room unless you don’t mind it turning black for a day or so.
The baths are said to have a variety of healing powers and they’re sure to fit the bill after a day on the slopes. If you plan on making a full circuit of all the onsen, leave valuables in your room and wear easy-on/easy-off clothes, such as a yukata (light summer cotton kimono), and slip-on shoes or sandals. If you go to one of the free baths just before or after dinner you can expect a crowd, but try one in the mid-morning or later in the evening, and you’re likely to have it to yourself.
Sleeping & Eating
The Minshuku Information Office (; 85-2068; 8.30am-5.30pm), in the centre of town, can help with accommodation, and has English-speaking staff.
Lodge Nagano (; 090-8670-9597; www.lodgenagano.com; r per person with breakfast from ¥4000, r in summer from ¥2500; ) This is a popular foreign-run guest house that attracts a lot of Aussie skiers and, with Vegemite in the dining room, makes them feel right at home. It’s a friendly, fun place with both bunk- and Japanese-style rooms, some with private bath. There’s wi-fi and a house computer as well.
Villa Nozawa (; 85-3163; www.nozawaholidays.com; r per person with breakfast from ¥6000, child under 15 half-price; ) This place caters to families, couples and small groups. It’s next to the free Nakao Onsen and has 14 Japanese-style rooms, a large kitchen and laundry facilities.
Lodge Matsuya (; 85-2082; fax 85-3694; r per person with breakfast from ¥6000, with 2 meals from ¥8000) In the centre of town is this large, friendly, family-run place with both Western- and Japanese-style rooms.
Pension Schnee (; 85-2012; www.pensionschnee.com; r per person with 2 meals from ¥8400) On the slopes near the Higake gondola base, this European-style hotel enjoys the best location in town. It’s a ski-in/ski-out place with comfortable pension-style rooms and a woodsy dining room.
Haus St Anton (; 85-3597; http://nozawa.com/stanton; r per person with 2 meals with/without bathroom from ¥14,000/11,550) In the centre of the village, this is a comfortable inn with an Austrian theme and very helpful, friendly staff. It has six attractive Western-style bedrooms in a variety of themes, and a dining area/bar with a woody, warm atmosphere. It is also very close to the supermarket and main shopping street.
Drinking
For nightlife, try Main Street Bar Foot (; 85-4004), right on the main drag. It’s a casual place for an after-ski drink, with free internet and table soccer. Stay (; 85-3404; www.seisenso.com), on the basement floor of the same building, is open late and run by a music-loving Japanese man who has lived abroad. The older crowd will prefer Minato Bar (; 85-2609), also easy to find in the northern part of town, near the base of the gondola. It’s a Japanese-style place that seats 50 and also offers karaoke next door.
Getting There & Away
There are direct buses between Nagano Station’s east exit and Nozawa Onsen (¥1400, 90 minutes, six buses per day in winter, three buses per day in summer). Alternatively, take a JR Iiyama-line train between Nagano and Togari Nozawa Onsen Station (¥740, 55 minutes). Regular buses connect Togari Nozawa Onsen Station and Nozawa Onsen (¥300, 15 minutes, nine per day). The bus station/ticket