Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [214]
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HAKUBA
0261
At the base of one of the highest sections of the northern Japan Alps, Hakuba is one of Japan’s main ski and hiking centres. In winter, skiers from all over Japan and increasingly from overseas flock to Hakuba’s seven ski resorts. In summer, the region is crowded with hikers drawn by easy access to the high peaks. There are many onsen in and around Hakuba-mura, the main village, and a long soak after a day of action is the perfect way to ease your muscles.
For information, maps and lodging assistance, visit the Hakuba Shukuhaku Jōhō Centre (; 72-6900; www.hakuba1.com, in Japanese; 7am-6pm), to the right of the Hakuba train/bus station, or Hakuba-mura Kankō Kyōkai Annai-jo (; 72-2279; 8.30am-5.15pm), just outside the station to the right (look for the ‘i’ symbol). Online, visit www.vill.hakuba.nagano.jp/e/index.htm.
Sights & Activities
HAPPŌ-ONE SKI RESORT
Host of the men’s and women’s downhill races at the 1998 Winter Olympics, Happō-One (72-3066; www.hakuba-happo.or.jp, in Japanese; 1-day lift ticket ¥4800; Dec-Apr) is one of Japan’s best ski areas. The mountain views here are superb – the entire Hakuba massif looks close enough to touch with your ski poles. Beginner, intermediate and advanced runs cater to skiers and snowboarders.
Most runs go right down the face of the mountain, with several good burners descending from Usagidaira 109, the mountain’s centre-point. Above this, two chairlifts run to the top, worth visiting for the views alone. On busy days, you can usually avoid lift-line bottlenecks by heading to areas like the Skyline 2.
The rest house at Usagidaira 109 is the largest eating establishment. There’s a rāmen restaurant, a kebab shop, a McDonald’s and the usual curry-rice-type selections. The modern Virgin Café Hakuba has upscale ambience, decent food, wait service, cappuccino etc. Café Kurobishi has excellent mountain views to the north and cafeteria-style seating.
There are plenty of hire places in the streets around the base of the mountain, some with boots up to 31cm. All have roughly the same selection and prices (¥2500 to ¥3000 per day for skis/board and boots), with modern carving skis, snowboards, short skis and accessories.
From Hakuba Station, a five-minute bus ride (¥260) takes you into the middle of Hakuba-mura; from there it’s a 10-minute walk to the base of Happō-One and the main ‘Adam’ gondola base station. In winter, a shuttle bus makes the rounds of the village, lodges and ski base.
HAKUBA 47 WINTER SPORTS PARK & HAKUBA GORYŪ SKI RESORT HAKUBA 47 &
The interlinked areas of Hakuba 47 Winter Sports Park (75-3533; www.hakuba47.co.jp/index_en.php) and Goryū Ski Resort (75-3700; www.hakubagoryu.com/e/index.html) form the second major ski resort (one-day lift ticket ¥4800; open December to April) in the Hakuba area. There’s a good variety of terrain at both areas, but you’ll have to be at least an intermediate skier to ski the runs linking the two. Like Happō-One, this area boasts fantastic mountain views; the restaurant Alps 360 is the place to enjoy them. The Genki Go shuttle bus from Hakuba-mura and Hakuba-eki provides the easiest access.
HAKUBA CORTINA KOKUSAI
This smaller ski area (82-2236; http://hakubacortina.jp/ski/index.html, in Japanese; 1-day lift ticket ¥3300; Dec-Apr) at the north end of the Hakuba valley is popular both with those wanting a break from the main ski areas, and with the richer crowd from Tokyo who want the resort experience. It also caters to more advanced skiers, but can be icy when there isn’t new snow. Its main building is a massive European gothic structure in red, white and black, with hotel, restaurants, ski rental and even a brand-new deluxe onsen all under one roof. You can also get a combined ticket with neighbouring Norikura resort for more skiing terrain. When the snow is fresh it’s an uncrowded alternative to Happ