Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [215]
ONSEN
There are many onsen in and around Hakuba-mura, and a long soak after a day of skiing or hiking is the perfect way to ease your muscles. By far the best of these is Obuya (; 75-3311; 21396 Kamishiro, Hakuba, Kita azumi-gun; www.obuya.jp/english.html; adult/child ¥800/400; 11am-10pm, enter by 9.30pm), just off the main road near the turn-off to Goryū Ski Resort, notable for its outdoor steam sauna and expansive rotemburo. Mimizuku-no-yu (; 72-6542; adult/child ¥500/250; 10am-9.30pm, enter by 9pm), near the Hakuba Tokyu Hotel, has some of the best mountain views from the tub.
SUMMER ACTIVITIES
In summer, take the gondola and the two upper chairlifts, and then hike along a trail for an hour or so to the pond Happō-ike on a ridge below Karamatsu-dake. From here, follow a trail for an hour up to Maru-yama, continue for 1½ hours to the Karamatsu-dake San-sō (mountain hut) and then climb to the peak of Karamatsu-dake (; 2695m) in about 30 minutes. The return fare is ¥2340 if purchased at the Hakuba tourist office, ¥2600 otherwise.
Other popular hikes include the four-hour ascent of Shirouma-dake (; 2932m), which offers spectacular views on clear days. Mountain huts provide meals and clean, basic accommodation (around ¥9000 per person with two meals) and are within an hour from the summit. Yari Onsen (; 72-2002; onsen ¥300, r per person with 2 meals ¥9000) is another popular hike for Japan’s highest rotemburo (2100m) and more breathtaking views.
Buses leave Hakuba Station for the trailhead at Sarukura (¥980, 30 minutes, between late May and September). From here you can hike west to Shirouma-dake in about six hours. A track southwest of Sarukura leads uphill for three hours to Yari Onsen.
Ask at tourist offices for information about Tsugaike Natural Park (), renowned for its alpine flora, and Nishina San-ko (; literally ‘Three Lakes of Nishina’, which are Aoki-ko, Nakazuna-ko and Kizaki-ko), which offer pleasant hiking.
Evergreen Outdoor Centre (www.evergreen-hakuba.com) offers an array of half-day adventures with English-speaking guides from about ¥5000 year-round, including canyoning and mountain biking, as well as snowshoeing and backcountry treks in the winter.
Sleeping & Eating
The village of Hakuba-mura has a huge selection of accommodation. The Hakuba Shukuhaku Jōhō Centre (opposite) can help arrange accommodation if you arrive without reservations.
Snowbeds (; 72-5242; www.snowbedsjapan.com; r per person from ¥3900) One of Hakuba’s cheapest, with fairly cramped bunk rooms and a nice communal area with a wood stove. It’s foreign-run, so communication is no problem, and it’s close to some good nightlife options.
Hotel Viola (; toll-free 0120-89-8193; www.hotel-viola.com; d per person with 2 meals from ¥8000) About 15 minutes’ walk from the gondola, this friendly place is a favourite of Aussie skiers and has clean, well-maintained rooms, English-speaking staff and a friendly atmosphere.
Hakuba Highland Hotel (; 72-3450; fax 72-3067; r per person with 2 meals from ¥8400) Located at the base of the Hakuba Highland ski area, this family-friendly hotel boasts a sensational view over the Hakuba range, clean and fairly spacious rooms and a great indoor-outdoor onsen.
Hakuba Tokyu Hotel (; 72-3001; www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/en/TR/TR_HAKUB/index.html; per person with breakfast from ¥13,000) This is a deluxe hotel with all the amenities. The rooms are formal, with great views. The Grand Spa boasts the highest alkaline content in the area, and the hotel also has a gift shop, bar and restaurant with French and Japanese cuisine.
Uncle Steven’s Mexican Food (72-7569; www15.ocn.ne.jp/~ustevens/index-e.html; Happō Gondola Rd; dinner meals ¥1000-1600; 11am-10.30pm) This is one of the most popular restaurants in Hakuba. The Steven’s Burrito, chimichanga and enchiladas are all quite authentic and the portions are big, though you may find it a little on the expensive side.
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