Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [219]
Saitō Kinen Festival About a dozen classical music concerts in memory of revered Japanese conductor and music educator Saitō Hideo (1902–72) held in mid-August to mid-September. Ozawa Seiji, conductor emeritus of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, is festival director.
Dōsojin Matsuri On the fourth Saturday in September, phallic merriment is to be had at the festival held in honour of dōsojin (roadside guardians) at Utsukushi-ga-hara Onsen.
Yohashira Jinja Matsuri This festival (aka Shintōsai) occurs around the beginning of October, featuring fireworks and large dolls.
Taimatsu Matsuri Around the start of October, Asama Onsen celebrates the spectacular fire festival with torch-lit parades that are accompanied by drumming.
Oshiro Matsuri The Castle Festival, from mid-October to 3 November, is a cultural jamboree that includes costume parades, puppet displays and flower shows.
Sleeping
Get away from the station (mostly cramped and charmless business hotels) for the many worthwhile lodgings within 10 minutes’ walk, especially in Nakamachi.
Nunoya (/fax 32-0545; 3-5-7 Chūō; r per person from ¥4500) Few inns have more heart than this pleasantly traditional charmer, with shiny wood floors and quality tatami rooms with shared bathrooms. No meals are served, but the cafes (and shops and galleries) of Nakamachi are just outside.
Marumo (32-0115; fax 35-2251; 3-3-10 Chūō; r per person ¥5250, with breakfast ¥6300) Between Nakamachi and the rushing Metoba-gawa, this beautiful wooden ryokan dates from 1868 and has lots of traditional charm, including a bamboo garden and coffee shop. Although rooms aren’t huge and don’t have private facilities, it’s quite popular, so book ahead.
Tōyoko Inn Matsumoto Ekimae Honmachi (36-1045; www.toyoko-inn.com; 2-1-23 Chūō; s/d & tw from ¥5460/8190; ) Bargain business hotel in the centre of everything. Rooms are functional, spotless and cramped, but freebies include quick phone calls from the lobby, LAN cable access and a simple Japanese breakfast.
Richmond Hotel (37-5000; www.richmondhotel.jp/e/matsumoto; 1-10-7 Chūō; s/d from ¥6400/8800; ) Central and crisp, this 240-room business hotel offers decent-sized rooms, a minimum of fuss and LAN cable access. Rates are for kai-in (members); to become one, fill out a form and pay a one-time ¥500 charge at check-in. Even cheaper rates are often available online.
Hotel Buena Vista (37-0111; www.buena-vista.co.jp; 1-2-1 Honjo; s/tw from ¥9240/19,645; ) Long Matsumoto’s sharpest Western hotel, the Buena Vista has been given a chic Barcelona-style makeover in its public spaces: dark woods, stone, mood lighting and world beats in the lobby. Rooms were slo-o-wly being renovated as we went to press. The Salon de Fuego lounge on the top (14th) floor has the city’s best views. LAN cable access and frequent internet specials are available.
UTSUKUSHI-GA-HARA ONSEN
Sugimoto (32-3379; 451-7 Satoyamabe; r per person from ¥15,000) You might want two nights in this fabulous ryokan on Utsukushi-ga-hara’s main street: one to get acquainted with the facilities – onsen baths, jacuzzi, mingei (folk art) collection, tea room, underground passage, bar stocked with single malts etc – and the second to enjoy them. Rooms range in size and decor (Japanese, Western and mixed), but all are ineffably stylish. Lunch or dinner (¥6000, by reservation) includes bath admission.
Eating & Drinking
Robata Shōya (37-1000; 11-1 Chūō; dishes ¥150-900; dinner) On a corner in the town centre is this classic, lively yakitori-ya (restaurant specialising in yakitori, which are skewers of grilled chicken), with a large selection of grills, seasonal specials and a (sort of) English menu.
Kura (33-6444; 1-10-22 Chūō; dishes from ¥300, teishoku ¥945-2100; lunch & dinner Thu-Tue) Located near Nakamachi, Kura serves meticulously prepared sushi and tempura for lunch and dinner in a stylish former warehouse. For the daring: basashi (raw horse meat).
Shizuka (32-0547; 4-10-8 Ōte; dishes ¥525-1365; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat)