Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [220]
Vamonos (36-4878; 1-4-13 Chūō; mains ¥750-900; lunch & dinner) This sweet little Mexican cantina serves enchiladas, burritos, nachos, large salads and dainty but potent margaritas. Look for the sign on the 2nd floor.
Old Rock (38-0069; 2-30-20 Chūō; mains from ¥750; lunch & dinner) A block south of the river and across the street from Nakamachi, this popular gaijin pub attracts a lively crowd on weekend nights. Good lunch specials and a wide selection of beers are available.
Nomugi (36-3753; 2-9-11 Chūō; soba ¥1100; lunch Thu-Mon) In Nakamachi, this is one of central Japan’s finest soba shops. Its owner used to run a French restaurant in Tokyo before returning to his home town. There’s one dish: zaru-soba in a wicker basket; plus kake-soba (¥1300), which is served during the colder months.
Coat (34-7133; 2-3-24 Chūō; 4pm-12.30am Tue-Sun) This sophisticated little bar is home to Matsumoto’s most famous bartender. Hayashi-san’s inventive otomenadeshiko cocktail won first prize at the Japan Bartenders Association competition early this decade.
For a quick coffee and cake, cafes line the banks of the Metoba-gawa and Nawate-dōri.
Shopping
Matsumoto is synonymous with temari (embroidered balls) and doll-making. You can find both at Berami (Belle Amie; 33-1314; 3-7-23 Chūō; 9am-7pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri & Sat, 10am-6pm Sun). Doll styles include tanabata and oshie-bina (dressed in fine cloth). Takasago street, one block south of Nakamachi, also has several doll shops.
In addition to Nakamachi’s galleries, Nawate-dōri north of the river is a colourful place for souvenirs and cafes. Parco department store has pride of place in the city centre.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Shinshū Matsumoto airport has flights to Fukuoka, Osaka and Sapporo.
BUS
Alpico (35-7400) runs buses between Matsumoto and Shinjuku in Tokyo (¥3400, 3¼ hours, 18 daily), Osaka (¥5710, 5¼ hours, two daily), Nagoya (¥3460, 3½ hours, six daily) and Takayama (¥3100, 2½ hours, four daily). Reservations are advised. Matsumoto’s bus station is in the basement of the Espa building across from the train station.
CAR
Hiring a car is often the best way to do side trips, and there are several agencies around the train station. Rates start at about ¥5250 for a half-day.
TRAIN
Matsumoto is connected with Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station (tokkyū, ¥6510, 2¾ hours, hourly), Nagoya (tokkyū, ¥5670, two hours) and Nagano (Shinano tokkyū, ¥2970, 50 minutes; futsū, ¥1110, 70 minutes).
Getting Around
The castle and the city centre are easily covered on foot, or free bicycles are available for loan; enquire at the tourist information office. Three ‘town sneaker’ bus routes loop through the centre between 9am and 6pm from April to November (to 5.30pm December to March) for ¥100/300 per ride/day; the blue and orange routes cover the castle and Nakamachi.
An airport shuttle bus connects Shinshū Matsumoto airport with the city centre (¥540, 25 minutes). Buses are timed to flights. A taxi costs around ¥4500.
Return to beginning of chapter
HOTAKA
0263
Not to be confused with Shin-Hotaka in Japan Alps National Park, Hotaka is home to Japan’s largest wasabi (Japanese horseradish) farm. It is an easy day trip from Matsumoto and a popular starting point for mountain hikes.
The tourist office (; 82-9363; 9am-5pm Apr-Nov, 10am-4pm Dec-Mar) and bicycle hire (per hr from ¥200), the recommended way to get around, are outside the Hotaka Station exit. Both have basic maps, and the tourist office has some English-speaking staff and can make lodging reservations.
Sights & Activities
DAI-Ō WASABI-NŌJO
A visit to the Dai-ō Wasabi-Nōjo (Dai-ō Wasabi Farm; 82-2118; admission free; 8.30am-5.30pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year) is de rigueur for wasabi lovers, and even wasabi haters may have fun. An English map guides you among wasabi plants (wasabi is grown in flooded fields), restaurants, shops and workspaces, all set amid