Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [234]
Our lineage is very different from that of samurai, who could pass their titles to the next generation regardless of merit. The position of tomurayaku was based on effectiveness, and we retained it for 170 years.
And so, through the generations, the house was passed on to us. Nowadays we don’t have any official role, but we tell the story of our ancestors and keep the house clean and in good condition. It’s a 400-year-old house, so the posts and windows are very delicate. It’s not the kind of thing where just anyone can come in and clean or repair it. It needs to be treated with respect, or something could easily be broken. I think that our ancestors are here with us, giving us the strength to protect and preserve this house.
We were put here courtesy of our ancestors, and I always feel a great sense of responsibility.
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West Noto Coast
0767
KITA-KE
During the Edo period, the Kita family administered over 200 villages from this house (28-2546; adult/child ¥500/200; 8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar), at the pivotal crossroads of the Kaga, Etchū and Noto fiefs. Inside this splendid, sprawling home and adjacent museum, still in the hands of the same family (about 400 years), are displays of weapons, ceramics, farming tools, fine and folk art, and documents. The garden has been called the Moss Temple of Noto.
Kita-ke is about 1km from the Komedashi exit on the Noto Toll Rd. By train, take the JR Nanao line to Menden Station; it’s about 20 minutes’ walk.
CHIRIHAMA NAGISA DRIVEWAY
At times the 8km beach, in the Chirihama district of Hakui City (), resembles an early Daytona, as buses, motorcycles and cars roar past the breakers. Hakui is Noto’s western transit hub, with frequent train connections to Kanazawa and less frequent bus connections along Noto’s west coast.
KETA-TAISHA
About 4km north of central Hakui, this shrine (22-0602; admission free; 8.30am-4.30pm), set in a wooded grove with sea views from its hillside, is said to be one of Japan’s four largest shrines. It was allegedly founded in the 1st century BC and dedicated to the kami (god) of this region. The architectural style of the present wooden buildings varies, but the oldest (Wakamiya-sha) dates from 1569.
Take a Togi-bound bus from Hakui to the Ichinomiya bus stop (¥240, 10 minutes, approximately 15 buses daily).
MYŌJŌ-JI
Founded in 1294 by Nichizō, a disciple of Nichiren, the imposing Myōjō-ji (27-1226; admission ¥500; 8am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) remains an important temple for the sect. The grounds comprise many buildings, including 10 Important Cultural Properties, notably the strikingly elegant Gojū-no-tō (Five-Storeyed Pagoda). Pick up an English-language pamphlet.
The Togi-bound bus from Hakui Station can drop you at Myōjō-ji-guchi bus stop (¥420, 18 minutes); from here, it’s under 10 minutes’ walk.
Noto-kongō Coast
0768
This rocky, cliff-lined shoreline extends for about 16km between Fukuura and Sekinohana, and is set with dramatic rock formations like the gate-shaped Ganmon (best reached under your own power, or by tour bus with the usual caveats).
The manicured little town of Monzen, about 25km northeast of Ganmon, is home to majestic Sōji-ji (42-0005, dial 186 for caller ID; fax 42-1002; adult/child/high-school student ¥400/150/300; 8am-5pm), the temple established in 1321 as the head of the Sōtō school of Zen. After a fire severely damaged the buildings in 1898 the temple was restored, but it now functions as a branch temple; the main temple is now in Yokohama. Sōji-ji welcomes visitors to experience one hour of zazen (seated meditation; ¥300; 9am to 3pm) and serves shōjin-ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine; ¥2500 to ¥3500); reserve at least two days in advance.
Monzen is a bus hub with service to Kanazawa (¥2200, 2½ hours), Hakui (¥1510, 1½ hours) and Wajima (¥740, 35 minutes). For the temple, tell the driver ‘Sōji-ji-mae’.
Wajima
0768 / pop 31,500
About 20km from Monzen, this fishing port on the north coast is the largest town in Oku-Noto and a historic centre for the production