Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [235]
The tourist information office (22-1503; 8am-7pm) at the former Wajima train station (now called Michi-no-eki, , still the bus station) provides English leaflets and maps, and staff can book accommodation. Limited English is spoken.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Wajima Shikki Shiryōkan/Shikki Kaikan
In the centre of town next to Shin-bashi is Wajima Shikki Shiryōkan/Shikki Kaikan (22-2155; admission ¥200; 8.30am-5pm), a lacquerware hall and museum. The 2nd-floor museum displays lacquerware production techniques and some prodigiously old pieces, including bowls that were being swilled out of when Hideyoshi was struggling to unify Japan 500 years ago. There’s a shop (admission free) downstairs where you can purchase contemporary works. Not cheap, but beautiful.
Ishikawa Wajima Urushi Art Museum
In the southwest corner of the town centre, this stately contemporary museum (22-9788; adult/junior-high & elementary-school student/student ¥600/150/300; 9am-5pm) has a large, rotating collection of lacquerware in galleries on two floors; works are both Japanese and foreign, ancient and contemporary. It’s about a 15-minute walk west of the train station. Phone ahead, as this museum closes between exhibitions.
Kiriko Kaikan
A selection of the impressive illuminated lacquered floats used in the Wajima Taisai and other regional festivals is on display in this hall (22-7100; adult/junior-high & elementary-school student/high-school student ¥600/350/450; 8am-6pm mid-Jul–Aug, to 5pm Sep–mid-Jul). Some of the floats are up to 15m tall. From Wajima Station, it is 20 minutes on foot, or you can take the bus to Tsukada bus stop (¥150, six minutes).
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AND IT WAS THIIIIIS BIG…
Wajima is home to the world’s largest lacquerware mural. Called Umi no Uta (Song of the Sea), this ocean scene is composed of 15 panels, each 2.6m by 1.2m; gold dust was applied to the wet lacquer to create the patterns. See it in the Wajima-shi Bunka Kaikan (; Wajima Culture Hall; admission free; daytime hr), behind the former Wajima station.
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Hegura-jima
This island with a lighthouse, several shrines and no traffic is a relaxing day trip. Birdwatchers flock here during the Golden Week holidays (29 April to 6 May) and in autumn for the astounding array of birds during the migratory season. If you want to extend your island stay, there are a couple of minshuku.
Weather permitting, Hegura Kōro operates a daily ferry (22-4381; one way ¥2200). It’s a 1½-hour trip, departing Wajima at 9am and Hegura-jima at 3pm (March to October) or 2pm (November to February), taking a week off in January for maintenance.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Gojinjō Daikō Nabune Matsuri This festival culminating on 31 July features wild drumming by performers wearing demon masks and seaweed headgear.
Wajima Taisai See Wajima’s famous, towering, illuminated kiriko festival floats (late August).
SLEEPING & EATING
Wajima has dozens of minshuku known for seafood meals worth staying in for. There are also some lovely restaurants by the harbour, though some close by early evening.
Sodegahama Camping Ground (; 23-1146; fax 23-1855; camp sites per person ¥1000; late-Apr–mid-Aug, office 4pm-9am) This camping ground is about 10 minutes west of town by bus. Take the local noranke bus (umi course, ¥100) or Nishiho bus (direction Zōza ) to Sodegahama or hike for 20 minutes.
Fukasan (; 22-9933; fukasan@crux.ocn.ne.jp; r per person with 2 meals ¥7800) By the harbour, this contemporary minshuku offers mood-lit rustic elegance, dark beams, high ceilings, an onsen and waves crashing outside your window.
Wajima (; 22-4243; sakaguti@quartz.ocn.ne.jp; s/d per person with 2 meals ¥7875/7350) This 10-room minshuku has subdued woodwork, a mineral onsen and Wajima-nuri bowls and chopsticks for eating your home-grown rice and catch of the day. It’s across Futatsuya-bashi, south of the city centre.
Madara-yakata (; 22-3453; mains ¥800-2100; lunch & dinner, closed irregularly)