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& Oct, to 6pm May-Aug), known as Hongan-ji, as the new headquarters for the Jōdo Shin-shū (True Pure Land) school of Buddhism, which had accumulated immense power. Later, Tokugawa Ieyasu saw this power as a threat and sought to weaken it by encouraging a breakaway faction of this school to found Higashi Hongan-ji (higashi means ‘east’) in 1602. The original Hongan-ji then became known as Nishi Hongan-ji (nishi means ‘west’). It now functions as the headquarters of the Hongan-ji branch of the Jōdo Shin-shū school, with over 10,000 temples and 12 million followers worldwide.

The temple contains five buildings, featuring some of the finest examples of architecture and artistic achievement from the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568–1600). The Goei-dō (Main Hall) has just been restored and is a marvellous sight. Another must-see building is the Daisho-in Hall, which has sumptuous paintings, carvings and metal ornamentation. A small garden and two nō (stylised Japanese dance-drama) stages are connected with the hall. The dazzling Kara-mon has intricate ornamental carvings.

KYOTO STATION

Kyoto’s station building (Map; Higashishiokō-ji-chō, Shiokōji sagaru, Karasuma-dōri, Shimogyō-ku) is a striking steel-and-glass structure – a futuristic cathedral for the transport age. Take some time to explore the many levels of the station, all the way up to the 15th-floor observation level. If you don’t suffer from fear of heights, try riding the escalator from the 7th floor on the eastern side of the building up to the 11th-floor aerial skywalk, high over the main concourse.

In the station building you’ll find several food courts (Click here), the Kyoto Prefectural International Centre (Click here), a performance space and Isetan department store.

SHŌSEI-EN

About five minutes’ walk east of Higashi Hongan-ji, the garden Shōsei-en (Map; 371-9181; Shichijō agaru, Karasuma-dōri, Shimogyō-ku; admission free; 9am-3.30pm) is a nice place for a stroll when you’re in the station area. The lovely grounds, incorporating the Kikoku-tei villa, were completed in 1657. Bring a picnic (and some bread to feed the carp) or just stroll around the beautiful Ingetsu-ike pond.

Downtown Kyoto

Downtown Kyoto (Map) looks much like any other Japanese city, but there are some excellent attractions to be found here, including Nishiki Market, the Museum of Kyoto, the Kyoto International Manga Museum and Ponto-chō. If you’d like a break from temples and shrines, then downtown Kyoto can be a welcome change. It’s also good on a rainy day, because of the number of covered arcades and indoor attractions.

NISHIKI MARKET

If you are interested in seeing all the really weird and wonderful foods that go into Kyoto cuisine, wander through Nishiki Market (Map; 211-3882; Nishikikōji-dōri btwn Teramachi & Takakura; 9am-5pm, varies for individual stalls, some shops closed on Wed). It’s in the centre of town, one block north of (and parallel to) Shijō-dōri. This market is a great place to visit on a rainy day or if you need a break from temple-hopping. The variety of foods on display is staggering, and the frequent cries of Irasshaimase! (Welcome!) are heart-warming.

MUSEUM OF KYOTO

This museum (Map; 222-0888; Takakura, Sanjō, Nakagyō-ku; admission ¥500, extra for special exhibitions; 10am-7.30pm, special exhibitions to 6pm, closed Mon or following day if Mon is a holiday, & 28 Dec-3 Jan) is worth visiting if a special exhibition is on or if you need a break from temples. The regular exhibits consist of models of ancient Kyoto, audiovisual presentations and a small gallery dedicated to Kyoto’s film industry. On the 1st floor, the Roji Tempō is a reconstructed Edo-period merchant area showing 10 types of exterior latticework (this section can be entered free; some of the shops sell souvenirs and serve local dishes). The museum has English-speaking volunteer tour guides. The museum is a three-minute walk southeast of the Karasuma-Oike stop on the Karasuma and Tōzai subway lines.

KYOTO INTERNATIONAL MANGA MUSEUM

This fine museum (Map; 254-7414; www.kyotomm.com/english; Oike