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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [247]

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agaru, Karasuma-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; adult/child ¥500/100; 10am-6pm, closed Wed & the following Thu when Wed is a national holiday, & new-year holiday) has a collection of some 300,000 manga (Japanese comic books). Located in an old elementary school building, the museum is the perfect introduction to the art of manga. While most of the manga and displays are in Japanese, the collection of translated works is growing.

In addition to the galleries that show both the historical development of manga and original artwork done in manga style, there are beginners’ workshops and portrait drawings on weekends. Visitors with children will appreciate the children’s library and the occasional performances of kami-shibai (humorous traditional Japanese sliding-picture shows), not to mention the Astroturf lawn where the kids can run free. The museum hosts six month-long special exhibits yearly: check the website for details.

It’s a short walk from the Karasuma-Oike Station on the Karuma line subway or the Tōzai line subway. Enter by 5.30pm.

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PRIVATE TOURS OF KYOTO

A private tour is a great way to see the sights and learn about the city without having to worry about transport and logistics. There’s a variety of private tours on offer in Kyoto.

All Japan Private Tours & Speciality Services (www.kyotoguide.com/yjpt) This company offers private tours of Kyoto, Nara and Tokyo as well as business coordination and related services.

Chris Rowthorn’s Walks & Tours of Kyoto & Japan (www.chrisrowthorn.com) Lonely Planet Kyoto and Japan author Chris Rowthorn offers private tours of Kyoto, Nara, Osaka and other parts of Japan.

Johnnie’s Kyoto Walking (http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/h-s-love) Hirooka Hajime, aka Johnnie Hillwalker, offers an interesting guided walking tour of the area around Kyoto Station and the Higashiyama area.

Naoki Doi (090-9596-5546; www3.ocn.ne.jp/~doitaxi) This English-speaking taxi driver offers private taxi tours of Kyoto and Nara.

Windows to Japan (www.windowstojapan.com) Offers custom tours of Kyoto and Japan.

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PONTO-CHŌ

A traditional nightlife district, Ponto-chō (Map) is a narrow alley running between Sanjō-dōri and Shijō-dōri just west of Kamo-gawa. It’s best visited in the evening, when the traditional wooden buildings and hanging lanterns create a wonderful atmosphere of old Japan. It makes a nice stroll in the evening, perhaps combined with a walk in nearby Gion.

Central Kyoto

KYOTO IMPERIAL PALACE PARK

The Kyoto Gosho is surrounded by the spacious Kyoto Imperial Palace Park (Kamigyō-ku Kyoto gyoen; Map; admission free; dawn-dusk), which is planted with a huge variety of flowering trees and open fields. It’s perfect for picnics, strolls and just about any sport you can think of. Take some time to visit the pond at the park’s southern end, which contains gorgeous carp. The park is most beautiful in the plum- and cherry-blossom seasons (late February and late March, respectively). The plum arbour is located about midway along the park on the west side. The best cherries can be found at the north end. The park is between Teramachi-dōri and Karasuma-dōri (to the east and west) and Imadegawa-dōri and Marutamachi-dōri (to the north and south).

KYOTO IMPERIAL PALACE (KYOTO GOSHO)

The original imperial palace (Map) was built in 794 and was replaced numerous times after destruction by fire. The present building, on a different site and smaller than the original, was constructed in 1855. Enthronement of a new emperor and other state ceremonies are still held there.

The Gosho does not rate highly in comparison with other attractions in Kyoto and you must apply for permission to visit (see following). However, you shouldn’t miss the park surrounding the Gosho (see preceding).

To get there, take the Karasuma line subway to Imadegawa or a bus to the Karasuma-Imadegawa stop and walk 600m southeast.

Reservation & Admission

Permission to visit the Gosho is granted by the Kunaichō, the Imperial Household Agency (Map; 211-1215; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri), which is inside the walled park surrounding

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