Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [248]
The Gosho can be visited without reservation during two periods each year, once in the spring and once in the autumn. The dates vary each year, but as a general guide, the spring opening is around the last week of April and the autumn opening is in the middle of November. Check with the TIC for exact dates.
The Imperial Household Agency is also the place to make advance reservations to see the Sentō Gosho, Katsura Rikyū and Shūgaku-in Rikyū.
SENTŌ GOSHO PALACE
The palace (Map; 211-1215; Kamigyō-ku Kyoto gyoen) is a few hundred metres southeast of the main Kyoto Gosho. It was originally built in 1630 during the reign of Emperor Go-Mizunō as a residence for retired emperors. The palace was repeatedly destroyed by fire and reconstructed but served its purpose until a final blaze in 1854 (it was never rebuilt).
The gardens, which were laid out in 1630 by Kobori Enshū, are superb. The route takes you past lovely ponds and pathways and, in many ways, a visit here is more enjoyable than a visit to the Gosho, especially if you are a fan of Japanese gardens. Visitors must obtain advance permission from the Imperial Household Agency (see preceding) and be over 20 years old. Tours (in Japanese) start at 11am and 1.30pm.
DAITOKU-JI
Daitoku-ji is a separate world within Kyoto – a collection of Zen temples, raked gravel gardens and wandering lanes. It is one of the most rewarding destinations in this part of the city, particularly for those with an interest in Japanese gardens. The name Daitoku-ji confusingly refers to both the main temple here and the entire complex, which contains a total of 24 temples and subtemples. We discuss three of them here, but another five are open to the public.
The eponymous Daitoku-ji (Map; 491-0019; 53 Daitokuji-chō, Murasakino, Kita-ku; admission free; dawn-dusk) is on the eastern side of the grounds. It was founded in 1319, burnt down in the next century and rebuilt in the 16th century. The San-mon contains an image of the famous tea master Sen-no-Rikyū on the 2nd storey. If you enter via the main gate on the east side of the complex, Daitoku-ji will be on your right, a short walk north.
Just north of Daitoku-ji, Daisen-in (Map; 491-8346; 54-1 Daitokuji-chō, Murasakino, Kita-ku; admission ¥400; 9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb) is famous for its two small gardens. At the western edge of the complex, Kōtō-in (Map; 492-0068; 73-1 Daitokuji-chō, Murasakino, Kita-ku; admission ¥400; 9am-4.30pm) is famous for its stunning bamboo-lined approach and the maple trees in its main garden (try to visit in the foliage season).
The temple bus stop is Daitoku-ji-mae and convenient buses from Kyoto Station are buses 205 and 206. Daitoku-ji is also a short walk west of Kitaō-ji subway station on the Karasuma line.
SHIMOGAMO-JINJA
This shrine (Map; 781-0010; 59 Izumigawa-chō, Shimogamo, Sakyō-ku; admission free; 6.30am-5pm) dates from the 8th century and is a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is nestled in the fork of the Kamo-gawa and Takano-gawa rivers, and is approached along a shady path through the lovely Tadasu-no-mori. This wooded area is said to be a place where lies cannot be concealed and is considered a prime location to sort out disputes.
The shrine is dedicated to the god of harvest. Traditionally, pure water was drawn from the nearby rivers for purification and agricultural ceremonies. The hondō (main hall) dates from 1863 and, like the Haiden hall at its sister shrine, Kamigamo-jinja, is an excellent example