Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [251]
The temple is a 1.5km walk east of Kyoto Station; alternatively, take bus 206 or 208 and get off at the Sanjūsangen-dō-mae stop. It’s also very close to Keihan Shichijō Station.
KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM
The Kyoto National Museum (Map; 531-7509; www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/index_top.html; 527 Chaya-machi, Higashiyama-ku; adult/student ¥500/250, extra for special exhibitions; 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon) is housed in two buildings opposite Sanjūsangen-dō temple. It was founded in 1895 as an imperial repository for art and treasures from local temples and shrines. There are 17 rooms with displays of over a thousand artworks, historical artefacts and handicrafts. However, the excellent permanent collection is closed for renovation until 2013. Until that time, the museum is open only when a special exhibition is on.
KAWAI KANJIRŌ MEMORIAL HALL
This museum (Map; 561-3585; 569 Kanei-chō, Gojō-zaka, Higashiyama-ku; admission ¥900; 10am-5pm, closed Mon & around 10-20 Aug & 24 Dec-7 Jan, dates vary each year) is one of Kyoto’s overlooked little gems, especially for those with an interest in Japanese crafts like pottery and furniture. The hall was the home and workshop of one of Japan’s most famous potters, Kawai Kanjirō (1890–1966). The 1937 house is built in rural style and contains examples of Kanjirō’s work, his collection of folk art and ceramics, and his workshop and a fascinating nobori-gama (a stepped kiln).
The hall is a 10-minute walk north of the Kyoto National Museum. Alternatively, take bus 206 or 207 from Kyoto Station and get off at the Umamachi stop. Enter by 4.30pm.
KIYOMIZU-DERA
This ancient temple (Map; 551-1234; 1-294 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama-ku; admission ¥300; 6am-6pm) was first built in 798, but the present buildings are reconstructions dating from 1633. As an affiliate of the Hossō school of Buddhism, which originated in Nara, it has successfully survived the many intrigues of local Kyoto schools of Buddhism through the centuries and is now one of the most famous landmarks of the city (for which reason it can get very crowded during spring and autumn).
The main hall has a huge verandah that is supported by hundreds of pillars and juts out over the hillside. Just below this hall is the waterfall Otowa-no-taki, where visitors drink sacred waters believed to have therapeutic properties. Dotted around the precincts are other halls and shrines. At Jishu-jinja, the shrine on the grounds, visitors try to ensure success in love by closing their eyes and walking about 18m between a pair of stones – if you miss the stone, your desire for love won’t be fulfilled!
Before you enter the actual temple precincts, check out the Tainai-meguri (admission ¥100; 9am-4pm), the entrance to which is just to the left (north) of the pagoda that is located in front of the main entrance to the temple (you may have to ask a temple official as there is no English sign). We won’t tell you too much about it as it will ruin the experience. Suffice to say that by entering the Tainai-meguri, you are symbolically entering the womb of a female bodhisattva. When you get to the rock in the darkness, spin it in either direction to make a wish.
The steep approach to the temple is known as Chawan-zaka (Teapot Lane) and is lined with shops selling Kyoto handicrafts, local snacks and souvenirs.
To get there from Kyoto Station take bus 206 and get off at either the Kiyōmizu-michi or Gojō-zaka stop and plod up the hill for 10 minutes.
NINEN-ZAKA & SANNEI-ZAKA/SANNEN-ZAKA
Just below and slightly to the north of Kiyomizu-dera, you will find one of Kyoto’s loveliest restored neighbourhoods, the Ninen-zaka-Sannen-zaka area. The name refers to the two main streets of the area: Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka, literally ‘Two-Year Hill’ and ‘Three-Year Hill’. These two charming streets are lined with old wooden houses, traditional shops and restaurants. If you fancy a break, there are many tea houses and cafes