Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [252]
KŌDAI-JI
This temple (Map; 561-9966; 526 Shimokawara-chō, Kōdai-ji, Higashiyama-ku; admission ¥600; 9am-5pm) was founded in 1605 by Kita-no-Mandokoro in memory of her late husband, Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The extensive grounds include gardens designed by the famed landscape architect Kobori Enshū, and tea houses designed by the renowned master of the tea ceremony, Sen-no-Rikyū.
The temple is a 10-minute walk north of Kiyomizu-dera (opposite). Check at the TIC for the scheduling of special night-time illuminations of the temple (when the gardens are lit by multicoloured spotlights).
MARUYAMA-KŌEN
This park (Map; Maruyama-chō, Higashiyama-ku) is a great place to escape the bustle of the city centre and amble around gardens, ponds, souvenir shops and restaurants. Peaceful paths meander through the trees and carp glide through the waters of a small pond in the centre of the park.
For two weeks in late March/early April, when the park’s many cherry trees come into bloom, the calm atmosphere of the park is shattered by hordes of revellers enjoying hanami (blossom-viewing). For those who don’t mind crowds, this is a good place to observe the Japanese at their most uninhibited. It is best to arrive early and claim a good spot high on the eastern side of the park, from which point you can safely peer down on the mayhem below.
The park is a five-minute walk east of the Shijō-Higashiōji intersection. To get there from Kyoto Station, take bus 206 and get off at the Gion stop.
YASAKA-JINJA
This colourful shrine (Map; 561-6155; Gion-machi, Higashiyama-ku; admission free; 24hr) is just down the hill from Maruyama-kōen. It’s considered the guardian shrine of neighbouring Gion and is sometimes endearingly referred to as ‘Gion-san’. This shrine is particularly popular as a spot for hatsu-mōde (the first shrine visit of the new year). If you don’t mind a stampede, come here around midnight on New Year’s Eve or over the next few days. Surviving the crush is proof that you’re blessed by the gods! Yasaka-jinja also sponsors Kyoto’s biggest festival, Gion Matsuri.
GION
Gion is Kyoto’s famous entertainment and geisha district on the eastern bank of the Kamo-gawa. Modern architecture, congested traffic and contemporary nightlife establishments rob the area of some of its historical beauty, but there are still some lovely places left for a stroll. Gion falls roughly between Sanjō-dōri and Gojō-dōri (north and south, respectively) and Higashiyama-dōri and Kawabata-dōri (east and west, respectively).
Hanami-kōji is the main north–south avenue of Gion, and the section south of Shijō-dōri is lined with 17th-century restaurants and tea houses, many of which are exclusive establishments for geisha entertainment. If you wander around here in the late afternoon or early evening, you may glimpse geisha or maiko (apprentice geisha) on their way to or from appointments.
Another must-see spot in Gion is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which is one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets, and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season. To get there, start at the intersection of Shijō-dōri and Hanami-kōji and walk north, then take the third left.
Gion is very close to Gion Shijō Station on the Keihan line.
KENIN-JI
Founded in 1202 by the monk Eisai, Kenin-ji (Map;561-6363; Higashiyama-ku, Shijo-sagaru; admission ¥500; 10am-4pm) is the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto. It’s an island of peace and calm on the border of the boisterous Gion nightlife district and it makes a fine counterpoint to the worldly pleasures of that area. The highlight here is the fine and expansive kare-sansui (dry landscape) garden. The painting of the twin dragons on the roof of the Hōdō hall is also fantastic; access to this hall is via two gates with rather puzzling English operating instructions (you’ll see what we mean).
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SOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMA WALKING TOUR
Start: Gojō-zaka bus stop on Higashiōji-dōri, serviced by buses 18, 100, 206 and 207 (Map)
End: Higashiyama