Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [253]
Distance: About 5km
Duration: Half-day
If you had only one day in Kyoto, this walk would be the best way to sample several of Kyoto’s most important sights and neighbourhoods. It’s pretty much a must-see route, heading right through the heart of Kyoto’s premier sightseeing district. Be warned, though, that almost every visitor to Kyoto, both Japanese and foreign, eventually makes their way here, so you’ll have to hit it very early in the day to avoid the crush.
The walk begins at Gojō-zaka bus stop (Map) on Higashiōji-dōri. From here, walk south for a few metres and turn up Gojō-zaka slope (there is an old noodle shop and pharmacy at the bottom of this street). Head uphill until you reach the first fork in the road; bear right and continue up Chawan-zaka (Teapot Lane). At the top of the hill you’ll come to Kiyomizu-dera, with its unmistakable pagoda rising against the skyline. Before you enter the main complex of Kiyomizu-dera, we recommend that you pay ¥100 to descend into the Tainai-meguri, the entrance to which is just to the left of the main temple entrance.
After touring Kiyomizu-dera, exit down Kiyomizu-michi, the busy approach to the temple. Walk down the hill for about 200m until you reach a four-way intersection; go right here down the stone-paved steps. This is Sannen-zaka, a charming street lined with old wooden houses, traditional shops and restaurants. There are many tea houses and cafes along this stretch.
Halfway down Sannen-zaka, the road curves to the left. Follow it a short distance, then go right down a flight of steps into Ninen-zaka, another quaint street lined with historic houses, shops and tea houses. At the end of Ninen-zaka zigzag left (at the vending machines), then right (just past the parking lot), and continue north. Very soon, on your left, you’ll come to the entrance to Ishibei-kōji – perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto, though it’s actually a cobbled alley lined on both sides with elegant, traditional Japanese inns and restaurants. Take a detour to explore this, then retrace your steps and continue north, passing almost immediately the entrance to Kōdai-ji on the right up a long flight of stairs.
After Kōdai-ji continue north to the T-intersection; turn right at this junction and then take a quick left. You’ll cross the wide pedestrian arcade and then descend into Maruyama-kōen, a pleasant park in which to take a rest. In the centre of the park, you’ll see the giant Gion shidare-zakura, Kyoto’s most famous cherry tree. Opposite the tree there’s a bridge that leads across a carp pond to the lovely upper reaches of the park – this is a good place for a picnic, but you’ll have to have brought something with you to eat, since the offerings in the park are limited to junk food.
From the park, you can head west (downhill) into the grounds of Yasaka-jinja and descend from the shrine to Shijō-dōri and Gion and make your way home (it’s about a 400m walk to Keihan Shijō Station from here). However, if you’ve got the energy, it’s best to return back through the park and head north to tour the grounds of the impressive Chion-in (opposite). From here it’s a quick walk to Shōren-in (opposite), which is famous for its enormous camphor trees out the front. From Shōren-in descend to Sanjō-dōri (you’ll see the giant shrine gate of Heian-jingū, Click here, in the distance). By going left on Sanjō-dōri, you’ll soon come to the Jingū-michi bus stop, where you can catch bus 5 or 100 to Kyoto Station, or continue west a little further on Sanjō-dōri and you’ll soon come to the Higashiyama-Sanjō Station on the Tōzai line.
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CHION-IN
In 1234 Chion-in (Map; 531-2111; 400 Rinka-chō, Higashiyama-ku; admission to grounds/inner buildings & garden free/¥400; 9am-4pm Mar-Nov, to 3.40pm Dec-Feb) was built on the site where a famous priest by the name of Hōnen had taught and eventually fasted to death. Today it is still the headquarters of the Jōdo (Pure Land) school of Buddhism, which was founded by Hōnen, and a hive of activity. For visitors with