Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [259]
NIJŌ-JŌ
This castle (Map; 841-0096; 541 Nijōjō-chō, Horikawa Nishi iru, Nijō-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; admission ¥600; 8.45am-5pm, closed Tue in Dec, Jan, Jul & Aug, closed 26 Dec-4 Jan) was built in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence of the first Tokugawa shōgun, Ieyasu. The ostentatious style of construction was intended as a demonstration of Ieyasu’s prestige and to signal the demise of the emperor’s power. As a safeguard against treachery, Ieyasu had the interior fitted with ‘nightingale’ floors and concealed chambers where bodyguards could keep watch.
After passing through the grand Kara-mon gate, you enter Ninomaru Palace, which is divided into five buildings with numerous chambers. The Ohiroma Yon-no-Ma (Fourth Chamber) has spectacular screen paintings. Don’t miss the excellent Ninomaru Palace Garden, which was designed by the tea master and landscape architect Kobori Enshū.
To reach the castle, take bus 9 from Kyoto Station to the Nijō-jō-mae stop. Alternatively, take the Tōzai subway line to the Nijō-jō-mae Station. Enter by 4pm.
NISHIJIN
The Nishijin district (Map) is the home of Kyoto’s textile industry, the source of the fantastically ornate kimonos and obi (ornamental kimono belts) for which the city is famous. It’s one of Kyoto’s more traditional districts, and there are still lots of good old machiya (traditional town houses) scattered about. To reach Nishijin, take bus 9 from Kyoto Station to the Horikawa Imadegawa stop.
Nishijin Textile Center
In the heart of the Nishijin textile district, this centre (Map; 451-9231; Imadegawa Minami iru, Horikawa-dōri, Kamigyō-ku; admission free; 9am-5pm) is a good place to observe the weaving of fabrics used in kimono and obi. There are also displays of completed fabrics and kimono, as well as weaving demonstrations and occasional kimono fashion shows. It’s on the southwest corner of the Horikawa-dōri and Imadegawa-dōri intersection.
Orinasu-kan
This museum (Map; 431-0020; 693 Daikoku-chō, Kamigyō-ku; adult/child ¥500/350; 10am-4pm, closed Mon) is housed in a Nishijin weaving factory. It has impressive exhibits of Nishijin textiles. The Susamei-sha building next door is also open to the public and worth a look. With advance reservations, traditional weaving workshops can be attended. It’s a short walk north of the Nishijin Textile Center (left).
KITANO TENMAN-GŪ
This shrine (Map; 461-0005; Bakuro-chō, Kamigyō-ku; admission free; 5am-dusk, 5am-6pm Jun-Aug, 5.30am-5.30pm Dec-Feb) is a fine and spacious shrine on Imadegawa-dōri. If you’re in town on the 25th of any month, be sure to catch the Tenjin-san market-fair held here. This is one of Kyoto’s two biggest markets and is a great place to pick up some interesting souvenirs. The markets held in December and January are particularly colourful.
From Kyoto Station, take bus 50 and get off at the Kitano-Tenmangū-mae stop. From Keihan Sanjō Station, take bus 10 to the same stop.
KINKAKU-JI
Kyoto’s famed ‘Golden Pavilion’, Kinkaku-ji (Map; 461-0013; 1 Kinkaku-ji-chō, Kita-ku; admission ¥400; 9am-5pm) is one of Japan’s best-known sights. The original building was built in 1397 as a retirement villa for Shōgun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. His son converted it into a temple.
In 1950 a young monk consummated his obsession with the temple by burning it to the ground. The monk’s story was fictionalised in Mishima Yukio’s The Golden Pavilion. In 1955 a full reconstruction was completed that exactly followed the original design, but the gold-foil covering was extended to the lower floors.
Note that this temple can be packed almost any day of the year. We recommend going early in the day or just before closing.
To get to the temple from Kyoto Station, take bus 205 and get off at the Kinkaku-ji-michi stop. From Keihan Sanjō, take bus 59 and get off at the Kinkaku-ji-mae stop.
RYŌAN-JI
This temple (Map; 463-2216; 13 Goryōnoshitamachi, Ryōan-ji, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥500; 8am-5pm