Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [260]
The viewing platform for the garden can be packed solid but the other parts of the temple grounds are also interesting and less crowded. Among these, Kyoyo-chi pond is perhaps the most beautiful, particularly in autumn. If you want to enjoy the kare-sansui garden without the crowds, try to come right at opening time.
From Keihan Sanjō Station, take bus 59 to the Ryōan-ji-mae stop. Alternatively, you can walk to Ryōan-ji from Kinkaku-ji (see preceding) in about half an hour.
NINNA-JI
This temple (Map; 461-1155; 33 Omuroōuchi, Ukyō-ku; admission to grounds free, admission to Kondō Hall & Treasure Hall ¥500; 9am-4.30pm) was built in 842 and is the head temple of the Omura branch of the Shingon school of Buddhism. The present temple buildings, including a five-storey pagoda, are from the 17th century. The extensive grounds are full of cherry trees that bloom in early April.
Admission to most of the grounds is free, but separate admission fees are charged for some of the temple’s buildings, many of which are closed most of the year. To get there, take bus 59 from Keihan Sanjō Station and get off at the Omuro Ninna-ji stop. From Kyoto Station take bus 26.
MYŌSHIN-JI
The vast temple complex Myōshin-ji (Map; 461-5226; 64 Myoshin-ji-chō, Hanazono, Ukyō-ku; admission to main temple/other areas of the complex ¥500/free; 9.10-11.40am, closed irregularly) is a separate world within Kyoto, a walled-off complex of temples and subtemples that invites lazy strolling. Myōshin-ji dates back to 1342, and belongs to the Rinzai school. There are 47 subtemples, but only a few are open to the public.
From the north gate, follow the broad stone avenue flanked by rows of temples to the southern part of the complex. The eponymous Myōshin-ji is roughly in the middle of the complex. Your entry fee here entitles you to a tour of several of the buildings of the temple. The ceiling of the hattō (lecture hall) here features Tanyū Kanō’s unnerving painting Unryūzu (meaning ‘dragon glaring in eight directions’). Your guide will invite you to stand directly beneath the dragon; doing so makes it appear that it’s spiralling up or down.
Another highlight of the complex is the wonderful garden of Taizō-in (admission ¥500; 9am-5pm), a subtemple in the southwestern corner of the grounds.
The northern gate of Myōshin-ji is an easy 10-minute walk south of Ninna-ji; or take bus 10 from Keihan Sanjō Station to the Myōshin-ji Kita-mon-mae stop.
KŌRYŪ-JI
A bit out of the way in northwest Kyoto, Kōryū-ji (Map; 861-1461; 32 Hachioka-chō, Uzumasa, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥700; 9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb) is easily paired with nearby Myōshin-ji to form a half-day tour for those with an interest in Japanese Buddhism. It is one of the oldest temples in Japan, and was founded in 622 to honour Prince Shōto-ku, an enthusiastic early promoter of Buddhism.
The Reihōkan hall contains numerous fine Buddhist statues, including the Naki Miroku (Crying Miroku) and the renowned Miroku Bosatsu, which is extraordinarily expressive. A national upset occurred in 1960 when an enraptured university student embraced the statue in a fit of passion (at least, that was his excuse) and inadvertently snapped off its little finger.
The hattō to the right of the main gate houses a magnificent trio of 9th-century statues: Buddha, flanked by manifestations of Kannon.
Take bus 11 from Keihan Sanjō Station, get off at the Ukyō-ku Sogo-chosha-mae stop and walk north. The temple is also close to Uzumasa Station on the Keifuku Arashiyama line.
Arashiyama & Sagano Area
Arashiyama and Sagano, at the base of Kyoto’s western mountains (known as the Arashiyama), is Kyoto’s second-most important sightseeing district after Higashiyama. On first sight, you may wonder what all