Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [261]
Arashiyama’s most stunning sight is the famous bamboo grove, which begins just outside the north gate of Tenryū-ji Click here. Walking through this expanse of swaying bamboo is like entering another world and it ranks high on the list of must-do experiences to be had in Japan.
Bus 28 links Kyoto Station with Arashiyama. Bus 11 connects Keihan Sanjō Station with Arashiyama. The most convenient rail connection is the ride from Shijō-Ōmiya Station on the Keifuku-Arashiyama line to Arashiyama Station (take the Hankyū train from downtown to get to Shijō-Ōmiya). You can also take the JR San-in line from Kyoto Station or Nijō Station and get off at Saga Arashiyama Station (be careful to take only the local train, as the express does not stop in Arashiyama).
The sites in this section are all within walking distance of Arashiyama Station. We suggest walking from this station to Tenryū-ji, exiting the north gate, checking out the bamboo grove, visiting Ōkōchi Sansō, then walking north to Giō-ji or Adashino Nembutsu-ji. If you have time for only one temple in the area, we recommend Tenryū-ji. If you have time for two, we suggest adding Giō-ji.
KAMEYAMA-KŌEN
Southwest of Tenryū-ji, this park (Map) is a nice place to escape the crowds of Arashiyama. It’s laced with trails, the best of which leads to a lookout over Katsura-gawa and up into the Arashiyama mountains. Keep an eye out for the monkeys; and keep children well away from the occasionally nasty critters.
TENRYŪ-JI
One of the major temples of the Rinzai school of Zen, Tenryū-ji (Map; 881-1235; 68 Susukinobaba-chō, Saga Tenryū-ji, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥600; 8.30am-5.30pm, with slight seasonal variations) was built in 1339 on the former site of Emperor Go-Daigo’s villa after a priest had dreamt of a dragon rising from the nearby river. The dream was interpreted as a sign that the emperor’s spirit was uneasy and the temple was constructed as appeasement – hence the name tenryū (heavenly dragon). The present buildings date from 1900, but the main attraction is the 14th-century Zen garden.
Arashiyama’s famous bamboo grove lies just outside the north gate of the temple.
ŌKŌCHI SANSŌ
This villa (Map; 872-2233; 8 Tabuchiyama-chō, Ogurayama, Saga, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥1000; 9am-5pm) is the home of Ōkōchi Denjiro, an actor in samurai films. The superb gardens allow fine views over the city and are open to visitors. The gardens are particularly lovely during the autumn foliage season. The admission fee is hefty but includes tea and a cake (save the tea/cake ticket that comes with your admission). The villa is a 10-minute walk through the bamboo grove north of Tenryū-ji.
JŌJAKKŌ-JI
If you continue north of Ōkōchi Sansō, the narrow road soon passes stone steps on your left that lead up to the pleasant grounds of Jōjakkō-ji (Map; 861-0435; 3 Ogura-chō, Ogurayama, Saga, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥400; 9am-5pm). The temple is famous for its maple leaves and the Tahōtō pagoda. The upper area of the temple precinct affords good views east over Kyoto. The temple is a 10-minute walk north of Ōkōchi Sansō. Last entry by 4.30pm.
RAKUSHISHA
This hut (Map; 881-1953; 20 Hinomyōjin-chō, Ogurayama, Saga, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥200; 9am-5pm Mar-Dec, 10am-4pm Jan & Feb) belonged to Mukai Kyorai, the best-known disciple of illustrious haiku (17-syllable poem) poet Bashō. Literally meaning ‘House of the Fallen Persimmons’, legend holds that Kyorai dubbed the house Rakushisha after waking one morning after a storm to find the persimmons he had planned to sell from the garden’s trees scattered on the ground. The hut is a short walk downhill and to the north of Jōjakkō-ji.
NISON-IN
Near Jōjakkō-ji, Nison-in (Map; 861-0687; 27 Monzenchōjin-chō, Nison-in, Saga, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥500; 9am-4.30pm) is in an attractive setting up the wooded hillside. The long approach to the temple, which is