Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [262]
TAKIGUCHI-DERA
The history of this temple reads like a Romeo and Juliet romance. Takiguchi-dera (Map; 871-3929; 10 Kameyama-chō, Saga, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm) was founded by Heian-era nobleman Takiguchi Nyūdō, who entered the priesthood after being forbidden by his father to marry his peasant consort Yokobue. One day Yokobue came to the temple with her flute to serenade Takiguchi, but was again refused by him; she wrote a farewell love sonnet on a stone (in her own blood) before throwing herself into the river to perish. The stone remains at the temple. The temple is about 10 minutes’ walk north of Nison-in.
GIŌ-JI
This quiet temple (Map; 861-3574; 32 Kozaka, Toriimoto, Saga, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥300; 9am-4.30pm, with seasonal variations) was named for a Heian-era shirabyōshi (traditional dancer) named Giō. Aged 21, Giō committed herself here as a nun after her romance with Taira-no-Kiyomori, the commander of the Heike clan. She was usurped by a fellow entertainer, Hotoke Gozen (who later left Kiyomori to join Giō at the temple). Enshrined in the main hall are five statues: these are Giō, Hotoke Gozen, Kiyomori, and Giō’s mother and sister (who were also nuns at the temple). It’s next to Takiguchi-dera.
ADASHINO NEMBUTSU-JI
This rather unusual temple (Map; 861-2221; 17 Adashino-chō, Toriimoto, Saga, Ukyō-ku; admission ¥500; 9am-4.30pm, with seasonal variations) is where the abandoned bones of paupers and destitutes without next of kin were gathered. Thousands of stone images are crammed into the temple grounds, and these abandoned souls are remembered each year with candles here in the Sentō Kuyō ceremony held on the evenings of 23 and 24 August. The temple is about 15 minutes’ walk north of Giō-ji.
ARASHIYAMA MONKEY PARK IWATAYAMA
Home to some 200 Japanese monkeys of all sizes and ages, this park (Map; 861-1616; 8 Genrokuzan-chō, Arashiyama, Nishikyō-ku; adult/child ¥550/250; 9am-5pm 15 Mar-15 Nov, to 4pm winter) is fun for kids and animal lovers of all ages.
Though it is common to spot wild monkeys in the nearby mountains, here you can see them close up. It makes for an excellent photo opportunity, not only for the monkeys but for the panoramic view over Kyoto. Refreshingly, it is the animals who are free to roam while the humans who feed them are caged in a box!
Just be warned: it’s a steep climb up the hill to get to the monkeys. If it’s a hot day, you’re going to be drenched by the time you get to the spot where they gather.
The entrance to the park is up a flight of steps just upstream of the Tōgetsu-kyō bridge (near the orange torii of Ichitani-jinja). Buy your tickets from the machine to the left of the shrine at the top of the steps.
HOZU-GAWA TRIP
The Hozu-gawa river trip (0771-22-5846; 1 Shimonakajima, Hozu-chō, Kameoka-shi; adult/age 4-12 ¥3900/2500; 9am-3.30pm, closed 29 Dec-4 Jan) is a great way to enjoy the beauty of Kyoto’s western mountains without any strain on the legs. The river winds through steep, forested mountain canyons before it arrives at its destination, Arashiyama. Between 10 March and 30 November, there are seven trips (from 9am to 3.30pm) per day. During the winter, the number of trips is reduced to four per day and the boats are heated.
The ride lasts two hours and covers 16km between Kameoka and Arashiyama, through occasional sections of tame white water – a scenic jaunt with minimal danger. The boats depart from a dock that is eight minutes on foot from Kameoka Station. Kameoka is accessible by rail from Kyoto Station or Nijō Station on the JR San-in (Sagano) main line. The train fare from Kyoto to Kameoka is ¥400 one way by futsū (local train).
Southeast Kyoto
TŌFUKU-JI
Founded in 1236 by the priest Enni, Tōfuku-ji (Map; 561-0087; 15-778 Honmahi, Higashiyama-ku; admission to garden/grounds ¥400/free; 9am-4pm Dec-Oct, 8.30am-4.30pm Nov) belongs to the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. As this temple was intended to compare with Tōdai-ji and Kōfuku-ji in Nara, it was