Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [263]
The huge San-mon is the oldest Zen main gate in Japan. The tōsu (lavatory) and yokushitsu (bathroom) date from the 14th century. The present temple complex includes 24 subtemples; at one time there were 53.
The Hōjō was reconstructed in 1890. The gardens, laid out in 1938, are well worth a visit. The northern garden has stones and moss neatly arranged in a chequerboard pattern. From a viewing platform at the back of the gardens, you can observe the Tsūten-kyō (Bridge to Heaven), which spans a valley filled with maples.
Note that Tōfuku-ji is one of Kyoto’s most famous autumn-foliage spots, and it is invariably packed during the peak of colours in November. Otherwise, it’s often very quiet.
Tōfuku-ji is a 20-minute walk (2km) southeast of Kyoto Station. You can also take a local train on the JR Nara line and get off at JR Tōfukuji Station, from which it’s a 10-minute walk southeast. Alternatively, you can take the Keihan line to Keihan Tōfukuji Station, from which it’s also a 10-minute walk.
FUSHIMI-INARI TAISHA
This intriguing shrine (Map; 641-7331; 68 Yabunouchi-chō, Fukakusa, Fushimi-ku; admission free; dawn-dusk) was dedicated to the gods of rice and sake by the Hata family in the 8th century. As the role of agriculture diminished, deities were enrolled to ensure prosperity in business. Nowadays the shrine is one of Japan’s most popular, and is the head shrine for some 30,000 Inari shrines scattered the length and breadth of Japan.
The entire complex consisting of five shrines sprawls across the wooded slopes of Inari-yama. A pathway wanders 4km up the mountain and is lined with hundreds of red torii. There are also dozens of stone foxes. The fox is considered the messenger of Inari, the god of the rice harvest (and, later on, business). The Japanese traditionally see the fox as a sacred, somewhat mysterious figure capable of ‘possessing’ humans. The key often seen in the fox’s mouth is for the rice granary.
The walk around the upper precincts of the shrine is a pleasant day hike. It also makes for a very eerie stroll in the late afternoon and early evening, when the various graveyards and miniature shrines along the path take on a mysterious air.
To get to the shrine from Kyoto Station, take a JR Nara line train to Inari Station. From Keihan Sanjō Station take the Keihan line to Fushimi-Inari Station. The shrine is just east of both of these stations.
DAIGO-JI
Daigo-ji (Map; 571-0002; 22 Higashiōji-chō, Daigo, Fushimi-ku; admission to grounds most of year/during cherry-blossom & autumn-foliage seasons free/¥600, to Sampō-in ¥600; 9am-5pm Mar-Dec, to 4pm Jan & Feb) was founded in 874 by the priest Shobo, who gave it the name of Daigo. This refers to the five periods of Buddha’s teaching, which were often compared to the five forms of milk prepared in India, the highest form of which is called daigo (ultimate essence of milk).
The temple was expanded into a vast complex of buildings on two levels – Shimo Daigo (Lower Daigo) and Kami Daigo (Upper Daigo). During the 15th century, the lower-level buildings were destroyed, with the sole exception of the five-storey pagoda. Built in 951, this pagoda still stands and is lovingly noted as the oldest of its kind in Japan and the oldest existing building in Kyoto.
The subtemple Sampō-in is a fine example of the amazing opulence of that period. The Kanō paintings and the garden are special features.
Daigo-yama, the mountain that forms the backdrop to the temple, is a steep climb that is enjoyable if you’re in good shape and the weather is cool. From Sampō-in, walk up the large avenue of cherry trees, go through the Niō-mon gate and past the pagoda. From there you can continue for a steep climb through the upper part of Daigo-yama, browsing temples and shrines on the way. Allow at least 50 minutes to reach the top. Unfortunately, one of the main halls, the Juntei-dō, burned to the ground recently. However, it’s still a worthwhile hike.
To get to Daigo-ji,