Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [264]
UJI
Uji is a small city to the south of Kyoto. Its main claims to fame are Byōdō-in and tea cultivation. The stone bridge at Uji – the oldest of its kind in Japan – has been the scene of many bitter clashes in previous centuries.
Uji is also home to Ujigami-jinja, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Despite this status, it’s not one of the Kyoto area’s more interesting sights. Those who wish to see it can find it by crossing the river (using the bridge near Byōdō-in) and walking about 10 minutes uphill (there are signs).
Uji can be reached by rail in about 40 minutes from Kyoto on the Keihan Uji line or JR Nara line.
When arriving in Uji by Keihan train, leave the station, cross the river via the first bridge on the right, and then turn left to find Byōdō-in. When coming by JR, the temple is about 10 minutes’ walk east (towards the river) of Uji Station.
Byōdō-in
This Buddhist temple (0774-21-2861; 116 Uji renge, Uji-shi; admission ¥600; 8.30am-5.30pm) was converted from a Fujiwara villa in 1052. The Hōō-dō (Phoenix Hall), more properly known as the Amida-dō, was built in 1053 and is the only original remaining building. The phoenix was a popular mythical bird in China and was revered by the Japanese as a protector of Buddha. The architecture of the building resembles the shape of the bird, and there are two bronze phoenixes perched opposite each other on the roof.
The building was originally intended to represent Amida’s heavenly palace in the Pure Land. This building is one of the few extant examples of Heian-period architecture, and its graceful lines make one wish that far more of its type had survived to the present day. For a preview, take a look at the ¥10 coin.
Inside the hall is the famous statue of Amida and 52 Bosatsu (bodhisattvas) dating from the 11th century and attributed to the priest-sculptor Jōchō. Enter by 5.15pm.
Southwest Kyoto
SAIHŌ-JI
The main attraction at this temple (Map; 391-3631; 56 Jingatani-chō, Matsuo, Nishikyō-ku; admission ¥3000, entry as part of tour only, advance reservation required) is the heart-shaped garden designed in 1339 by Musō Kokushi. The garden is famous for its luxuriant moss, hence the temple’s other name, Koke-dera (Moss Temple). While the reservation procedure is troublesome and the entry fee rather steep, a visit to the temple is highly recommended – the lush, shady garden is among the best in Kyoto.
Before you visit the garden, you will be asked to copy a Sutra using a Japanese ink brush. It’s not as hard as it sounds, as you can trace the faint letters on the page – and don’t worry about finishing. Once in the garden, you’re free to move about as you wish.
Take bus 28 from Kyoto Station to the Matsuo-taisha-mae stop and walk 15 minutes southwest. From Keihan Sanjō Station, take Kyoto bus 63 to Koke-dera, the last stop, and walk for two minutes.
Reservations
To visit Saihō-ji, you must make a reservation. Send a postcard at least one week before the date you wish to visit and include details of your name, number of visitors, address in Japan, occupation, age (you must be over 18) and desired date (choice of alternative dates preferred). The address:
Saihō-ji,
56 Kamigaya-chō,
Matsuo, Nishikyō-ku,
Kyoto-shi 615-8286,
JAPAN
Enclose a stamped, self-addressed postcard for a reply to your Japanese address. You might find it convenient to buy an Ōfuku-hagaki (send-and-return postcard set) at a Japanese post office.
KATSURA RIKYŪ
This palace (Katsura Detached Palace; Map;211-1215; Katsura Misono, Nishikyō-ku; admission free) is considered to be one of the finest examples of Japanese traditional architecture. It was built in 1624 for the emperor’s brother, Prince Toshihito. Every conceivable detail of the villa, the tea houses, the large pond with islets and the surrounding garden has been given meticulous attention.
Tours (around 40 minutes),