Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [275]
Downtown Kyoto
Downtown Kyoto has the best variety of approachable Japanese and international restaurants. In addition to the choices listed here, don’t forget the restaurant floors of the major department stores, which contain many easy-to-enter restaurants of all descriptions.
BUDGET
Musashi Sushi (Map; 222-0634; Kawaramachi-dōri, Sanjō agaru, Nakagyō-ku; all plates ¥130; 11am-10pm) This is the place to go to try kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi). Sure, it’s not the best sushi in the world, but it’s cheap, easy and fun. Look for the mini sushi conveyor belt in the window. It’s just outside the entrance to the Sanjō covered arcade.
Park Café (Map; 211-8954; 1F Gion Bldg, 340-1 Aneyakō-ji kado, Gokomachi-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; drinks from ¥400; noon-midnight) This hip little cafe always reminds us of a Melbourne coffee shop. It’s on the edge of the downtown shopping district and a convenient place to take a break.
Café Independants (Map; 255-4312; B1F 1928 Bldg, Sanjō Gokomachi kado, Nakagyō-ku; salads/sandwiches from ¥400/800; 11.30am-midnight) Located beneath a gallery, the cool subterranean cafe offers a range of light meals and good cafe drinks in a bohemian atmosphere. A lot of the food offerings are laid out on display for you to choose from – with the emphasis on healthy sandwiches and salads. Take the stairs on your left before the gallery.
A-Bar (Map; 213-2129; Nishikiyamachi-dōri; dishes from ¥500; 5-11pm) This student izakaya (pub-eatery) with a log-cabin interior is popular with expats and Japanese students for a raucous night out. The food is fairly typical izakaya fare, with plenty of fried items and some decent salads. It’s a little tough to find – look for the small black-and-white sign at the top of a flight of steps. Last orders 10.30pm.
Kyō-Hayashi-ya (Map; 231-3198; 6F Takase Bldg, 105 Nakajima-chō, Kawaramachi Higashi iru, Sanjō-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; green tea ¥600; 11.30am-9.30pm) If you feel like a change from international coffee chains and want to try some good Japanese green tea and enjoy a nice view over the mountains while you’re at it, this is the place. English menu.
Ootoya (Map; 255-4811; Sanjō-dō, Kawaramachi higashi iru, Nakagyō-ku; meals around ¥700; 10am-11pm) Ootoya is a clean, modern Japanese restaurant that serves a range of standard Japanese dishes at bargain-basement prices. It’s popular with Kyoto students and young office workers. The large picture menu makes ordering a breeze. Look for the English sign just west of Ganko Sushi.
Misoka-an Kawamichi-ya (Map; 221-2525; Sanjō agaru, Fuyachō-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; dishes ¥700-4000; 11am-8pm, closed Thu) This is the place to head for a taste of some of Kyoto’s best soba (buckwheat) noodles in traditional surroundings. They’ve been handmaking noodles here for 300 years. Try a simple bowl of nishin soba (soba topped with fish), or the more elaborate nabe dishes (cooked in a special cast-iron pot). Look for the noren (Japanese curtains) and the traditional Japanese exterior. English menu.
Yak & Yeti (Map; 213-7919; 403-2 Dainichi-chō, Nishikikōji sagaru, Gokomachi-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; curry lunch sets from ¥750; 11.30am-3pm & 5-10pm) This is a little Nepali place that serves reliably good curry sets for lunch and tasty à la carte dinners. English menu. Last lunch orders 2.25pm.
Biotei (Map; 255-0086; 2F M&I Bldg, 28 Umetada-chō, Higashinotōin Nishi iru, Sanjō-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; lunch from ¥750; 11.30am-2pm & 5-8.30pm Tue-Fri, dinner Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, closed Sun, Mon & holidays; ) Located diagonally across from the Nakagyō post office, this is a favourite of Kyoto vegetarians. Best for lunch, it serves a daily set of Japanese vegetarian food (the occasional bit of meat is offered as an option, but you’ll be asked your preference). It’s up the metal spiral steps. English menu.
Karafuneya Coffee Honten (Map; 254-8774; Kawaramachi-dōri Sanjō sagaru, Nakagyō-ku; simple meals around ¥800; 9am-1pm) Japan is famous for its plastic food models, but this