Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [276]
Shizenha Restaurant Obanzai (Map; 223-6623; 199 Shimomyōkaku-ji-chō, Oike agaru, Koromonotana-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; lunch/dinner ¥840/2100; 11am-2pm & 5-9pm, closed dinner Wed; ) A little out of the way but good value, Obanzai serves a good buffet-style lunch/dinner of mostly organic vegetarian food. It’s northwest of the Karasuma-Oike crossing, set back from the street a bit.
Kerala (Map; 251-0141; 2F KUS Bldg, Sanjō agaru, Kawaramachi, Nakagyō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥850/2500; 11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm, closed irregularly) This is where we go for reliable Indian lunch sets – great thalis that include two curries, good naan bread, some rice, a small salad etc. Dinners are à la carte and run closer to ¥2500 per person. It’s on the 2nd floor; look for the display of food in the glass case on street level. English menu.
Honke Tagoto (Map; 221-3030; 12 Ishibashi-chō, Kawaramachi Nishi iru, Sanjō-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; noodle dishes from ¥840; 11am-9pm) One of Kyoto’s oldest and most revered soba restaurants makes a good break for those who have overdosed on rāmen. It’s in the Sanjō covered arcade and you can see inside to the tables. English menu.
Café Bibliotec HELLO! (Map; 231-8625; 650 Seimei-chō, Yanaginobanba higashi iru, Nijō, Nakagyō-ku; food from ¥850, coffee ¥450; 11.30am-11pm, closed irregularly) Like its name suggests, books line the walls of this cool cafe located in a converted machiya. You can get the usual range of coffee and tea drinks here, as well as light cafe lunches. Overall, this may be our favourite cafe in Kyoto, and it’s worth the walk from the centre of town. Look for the plants out front. English menu.
Katsu Kura (Map; 212-3581; Sanjō Higashi iru Teramachi-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; tonkatsu from ¥890; 11am-9.30pm) This restaurant in the Sanjō covered arcade is a good place to sample tonkatsu. It’s not the best in Kyoto, but it’s relatively cheap and casual. English menu. Last orders 9pm.
Kōsendō-sumi (Map; 241-7377; Aneyakōji Higashi iru, Sakaimachi-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; lunch from ¥900; 11.30am-3pm Mon-Sat) A good pick for a pleasant lunch while in the city centre. Kōsendō-sumi is in an old Japanese house and serves a daily set lunch of simple Japanese fare. It’s near the Museum of Kyoto.
Kane-yo (Map; 221-0669; Rokkaku, Shinkyōgoku, Nakagyō-ku; unagi over rice from ¥950; 11.30am-9pm) This is a good place to try unagi (eel). You can sit downstairs with a nice view of the waterfall or upstairs on the tatami. The kane-yo donburi set (¥950) is great value; it’s served until 3pm. Look for the barrels of live eels outside and the wooden facade. English menu.
Le Bouchon (Map; 211-5220; 71-1 Enoki-chō, NIjō sagaru, Teramachi-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; lunch/dinner from ¥980/2500; 11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm, closed Thu) This reliable French place serves good lunch and dinner sets and has a pleasant, casual atmosphere. The kitchen does very good work with fish, salads and desserts. The owner speaks English and French as well as Japanese, and will make you feel right at home.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Merry Island Café (Map; 213-0214; Oike agaru, Kiyamachi-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; weekend lunch from ¥1000; 2pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 11.30am-midnight Sat, Sun & holidays, closed Mon) This popular lunch/dinner restaurant strives to create the atmosphere of a tropical resort. The menu is mukokuseki (without nationality) and most of what is on offer is pretty tasty. It does a good risotto and occasionally has a nice piece of Japanese steak. In warm weather the front doors are opened and the place takes on the air of a sidewalk cafe. English menu.
Ganko Zushi (Map; 255-1128; 101 Nakajima-chō, Kawaramachi Higashi iru, Sanjō-dōri, Nakagyō-ku; lunch/dinner ¥1000/3000; 11am-11pm) Near Sanjō-ōhashi bridge, this is a good place for